Actors Steve Coogan and John C. Reilly’s “mission” is to bring the comedy duo to life for a new generation of fans at the end of BFI London Film Festival. Rough cut (no reporter narration).
SOBERING UP: The Turbulent Thirties and its fashion — ranging from the influence of Hollywood films to the rise of suburbia — will be the focus of a new show called “Night and Day: 1930s Fashion & Photographs” at The Fashion and Textile Museum. The exhibition will open Friday and run until Jan. 20.
Split into different tableaux, the exhibition highlights the changing political and cultural landscape of the decade, and its impact on fashion. There will be a total of 100 looks on display, lent by Mark and Cleo Butterfield of C20 Vintage.
“Whilst carrying out the research and planning Night and Day, it became clear that escapism was a major theme that needed to be explored. While the decade is famous for its glamorous bias-cut evening gowns that showcased a woman’s curves and its magical musicals full of romance and glamour, these years were defined by a constant anxiety about the harsh economic reality and shifting social status,” said co-curator Teresa Collenette.
“Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs,” at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London, until Jan. 20.
Fashion and Textile Museum
Following the Twenties jazz age, Thirties fashion witnessed a drop in hemlines to the ankles and the broadening of shoulders while trouser
Fancy holding a Swiss passport? Well now you can, at least of sort, thanks to an American artist who is issuing his take of the documents. Rough cut (no reporter narration).
The 16th edition of Frieze Art Fair London opened on Wednesday (October 3), and like with 2017, it featured a special themed section for women artists.Rough cut (no reporter narration).
© ℗ 1990 Deutsche Grammophon GmbH, Berlin
© © 1935 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved.
London’s designers were in an extravagant mood for spring; Halpern, Matty Bovan and Mary Katrantzou were among those who accented their collections with sparkly, high-shine sequins, added crafty fringes on the hems of skirts and accessorized their looks with dramatic tulle veils. There was also a focus on revisiting and reworking classics, such as the Eighties power suit — as seen on Chalayan’s deconstructed take on blazers — and the quintessentially British trench. And speaking of British traditions: designers didn’t lose their sense of humor printing provocative slogans on T-shirts and sweatshirts in true punk fashion. Riccardo Tisci, who made his much-awaited debut at Burberry this season, embellished the brand’s signature trenches with silky scarves while also poking fun at his famous Givenchy Bambi print.
Blake Lively and Anna Kendrick attend London premiere of “A Simple Favor” at the BFI Southbank. Rough cut (no reporter narration)
© © 2018 Bananarama under exclusive license to Live Here Now Limited
ANIMALS UNITED: Fur will no longer be used on the London Fashion Week catwalks, as of this month.
The British Fashion Council made an announcement Friday morning confirming that, after conducting a survey with all on-schedule designers, it has decided to ban fur from London’s catwalks.
The news comes on the heels of Burberry’s announcement to ban fur from its collections, with the exception of shearling, and follows the example set by brands including Gucci, Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors, among others.
In the last year, anti-fur activists have been making their presence felt outside BFC venues, demanding that the organization imposes a total fur ban on catwalk and presentation designers.
Until now, the BFC has said that while it advises designers to operate in sustainable ways, it cannot interfere with their creative process.
“The BFC supports the creativity of designers and keeps an open dialogue with the industry, from designers to media, retailers, business leaders, government and global brands while encouraging designers to make ethical choices when it comes to their selection of materials and supply chain,” the organization said, following the announcement.
The survey conducted on fur debate was part of the BFC’s Positive Fashion initiative,
Lil Uzi Vert recently had a Bible thrown at him during an onstage performance and while it might’ve interrupted him for a second it surely hasn’t stopped him from continuing to rap.
While his fans await for his upcoming LP Eternal Atake, Uzi keeps feeding them appetizers and today’s no different as he drops a quick “Free Smooth Freestyle” where he drops some bars off the top of his head with a few friends who do the same.
Back on the west coast Saweetie and London On Da Track turn up from the race track to the baseball diamond in the G-Eazy and Rich The Kid assisted clip to “Up Now.”
Check out the rest of today’s drops including work from Boogie, Tommy Genesis, and more.
LIL UZI VERT – “FREE SMOOTH FREESTYLE”
SAWEETIE & LONDON ON DA TRACK FT. G-EAZY AND RICH THE KID – “UP NOW”
BOOGIE – “DÉJÀ VU”
TOMMY GENESIS – “100 BAD”
CLASSIFIED – “FINISH IT”
FREDO BANG – “STATUS”
© ℗ 1980 Decca Music Group Limited
© ℗ 2018 Ubuntu Music
Today Sucks But Behold This Giant Shi…
This enormous Jeff Goldblum statue in London is here to make today suck slightly less.
Submitted by: Dashiell Driscoll
Keywords: jeff goldblum statue london bridge jurassic park shirtless london
Acclaimed director Steve McQueen’s latest film ‘Widows’, which stars Viola Davis and Michelle Rodriguez is announced as opener for the BFI London Film Festival. Rough Cut – no reporter narration.
A sculpture by artist Christo made from 7,506 red, white and mauve barrels, has taken temporary residence among the wildlife on a lake in London’s Hyde Park. Jayson Mansaray reports.
A sculpture by Auguste Rodin is also featuring in the Christie’s sale and is expected to fetch between 5 and 7 million pounds. Rough cut (no reporter narration)
A fashionably dressed Amal Clooney hit the Giambattista Valli London store opening on June 14, looking long and lean in a burgundy jumpsuit. See the barrister’s chic look.
© © 2018 Steps Music LLP Under Exclusive License to Live Here Now Limited
LONDON — With a thinning calendar and the absence of big-name brands — from J.W. Anderson to Grace Wales Bonner and Craig Green, this season at least, while he shows at Pitti — some in the industry have been wondering whether London Fashion Week Men’s can hold its own for much longer.
The event, which this year has dwindled to three days from four, is not giving up and a small, yet noteworthy, group of young designers is moving to the forefront, moving the needle on men’s wear by approaching genderless dressing in new ways, and experimenting with silhouettes and sustainable fabrics.
Retailers are paying attention, too, and are looking to London, which kick-starts the European men’s fashion calendar, to set the mood of the season and act as a crucible for trends and ideas.
“London is the first to present its collections, so it sets the tone for us of what’s to come. Despite all the big name exits, the event is still relevant and it’s important for us to attend and support our home-grown talent,” said David Aquilina, head of men’s wear buying at Harvey Nichols.
For Browns, the British retailer that made its name supporting emerging talent, there’s still an array of promising
The map of the Hundred Acre Wood drawn by E.H. Shepard in 1926 is expected to fetch up to $ 200,000. Rough cut (no reporter narration)
The Rolling Stones thrilled fans in London, England with the first UK gig of their new tour. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).
Britain’s Queen Elizabeth attends the Chelsea Flower show at London’s Royal Hospital. Rough cut (no reporter narration).
© ℗ 2011 Decca, a division of Universal Music Operations Limited
CALLING COLVILLE: Matchesfashion.com has launched Colville, a contemporary label, with an installation at the retailer’s town house in London’s Marylebone.
Named after artist David Hockney’s Seventies residence, the brand is the brainchild of Molly Molloy, Kristin Forss and Lucinda Chambers. Design directors Molloy and Forss honed their skills at the Italian brand Marni for more than 10 years and worked with Chambers, who styled the label.
The designers describe their label as “personal, modern and eclectic, fearless, sensitive, eccentric and rigorous” and said during a walk-through that it’s an amalgamation of Chambers’, Forss’ and Molloy’s arty styles.
There is a focus on color, self-expression and texture.
The 30-piece offering is filled with layer-able pieces including tailored outerwear, cropped parkas, graphic printed dresses, skirts, jacquard knits and trousers.
The trio has also teamed with jewelry designer Vicki Sarge and milliner Stephen Jones on accessories. Prices range from 345 pounds for a pair of shoes to 1,560 pounds for a coat.
It will be sold exclusively at the British retailer.
“We love working together, we knew we could create a brand that we all wanted to wear and it felt very natural,” said Molloy.
Forss said the inspiration was “the women we know, who are intelligent and exciting and who
Milk filmmaker Dustin Lance Black and the British Olympian Tom Daley are celebrating the arrival of their first child with a fun-filled baby shower in London.
The 23-year-old diver and…
E! Online (US) – Top Stories
Entertainment News! –
The “BFI Flare” London LGBTQ+ film festival opens Wednesday (March 21) with Lesbian film “My Days of Mercy” starring Ellen Page and Kate Mara. ROUGH CUT (no reporter narration).
Star and co-producer Boyega says he’s enjoying making blockbusters and Eastwood calls “Pacific Rim Uprising” a ”fun film”. Rough cut (no reporter narration).
MysteryVibe co-founder Stephanie Alys opened the London Stock Exchange this morning.
XBIZ.com – Pleasure & Retail
SENTALER HEADS TO LONDON: Sentaler, a favorite outerwear brand of Meghan Markle, the fiancée of Prince Harry, will be heading to London during London Fashion Week to preview its fall 2018 collection by private appointment with the designer, Bojana Sentaler. The brand hasn’t been sold in any British stores yet.
Markle wore a Sentaler long wide-collar wrap coat with signature ribbed cuffs in camel while attending Christmas Day service in Sandringham alongside the Royal Family. It marked the first public outing with the entire family for the actress, who has worn Sentaler outerwear and accessories for years. Sentaler coats have also been worn by the Duchess of Cambridge and Canada’s First Lady, Sophie Gregoire-Trudeau.
The Toronto-based luxury outerwear firm began selling in the U.S. market last year at department stores such as Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.
The fall collection is inspired by fairy tales. The coat collection is handcrafted from alpaca fabrics, including Suri alpaca and animal-friendly alpaca furs sourced in the Peruvian Andes. The color range includes royal navy, violet, lilac and steel blue.
Appointments in London can be made through Anya Nordström at firstname.lastname@example.org and Dani Matte at email@example.com
London Zoo has honored Prince Harry’s fiancee by naming its newborn okapi after her.
LONDON — Victoria Beckham plans to mark her decade in business with a series of events, including a 10th anniversary fashion show during London Fashion Week in September.
The big year will start with a change to the way Beckham shows her collections. The company said fall will be showcased via “intimate presentations” at the James Burden Mansion on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, recalling the early appointments Beckham held in New York for the then-fledgling business.
The show will take place during London Fashion Week in September, which runs from the 14th to the 18th of the month. The company said it plans to mark the anniversary with other initiatives throughout the year, including special pieces and activations.
The 10-year anniversary comes just months after Victoria Beckham Ltd. brought in NEO Investment Partners, a private investment firm based in London, as a new shareholder.
The 30 million pound investment from NEO has been earmarked to enhance the brand’s digital and physical retail presence, drive growth in core categories and launch into new categories and collaborations. The company also plans to move to new west London premises in the spring.
The brand produces the main line Victoria Beckham, a sister line called Victoria Victoria Beckham, accessories, footwear
FRESH TALENT: London College of Fashion’s graduating MA men’s wear students showcased their collections on Friday with a runway show ahead of London Fashion Week Men’s.
Ten students from the fashion design technology men’s wear course presented their ranges at St John’s Smith Square in Westminster, in the show styled by Adele Cany. The strongest lineups came from Hanni Yang, Ying Yi Lu, Hengmin Lu, Sohyeon Park and Xu Bo.
Yang, who has worked with Teatum Jones and Céline, explored pattern-cutting and worked scarves onto the garments. She sent out a range of tailored-yet-relaxed looks and draped burgundy and cream silk scarves over a white men’s wear shirt and burgundy trousers.
Ying Yi Lu looked to young boys of the Victorian era and focused on tailoring, as in a cropped blue pinstripe suit. Lu topped off the looks with sailor style hats done in collaboration with Atelier Millinery.
Hengmin Lu — who has worked with Ports 1961 — was inspired by the architecture of the Chairman Mao era. Lu explored functionality and pattern cutting as seen on a long brown coat, worn over a white shirt with a mandarin collar and white knee-length shorts. The student teamed with JKJY Handcraft Fashion Ltd. Shanghai on
From skiing to winning the lottery, London men’s wear designers looked to a wide range of subjects for inspiration for their fall collections. Here, some of the topics that sparked their creativity ahead of the shows, which begin on Saturday.
“This season we celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Trialmaster jacket, which gave me an opportunity to revisit our British roots and present our Made in U.K. collection. Looking through our Trialmaster history led me to explore English youth subcultures and how our jackets have been adopted and customized since the Fifties. The iconic silhouettes from this era including the field, parka and biker jackets have been updated this season with added functionality and modern fabrications. The hero piece of the collection is the anniversary Trialmaster, which is entirely manufactured in the U.K., in a new tumbled coated cotton and reflective tape with badges, celebrating our heritage.” — Delphine Ninous, creative director, Belstaff
“A deep dive into the big blue. The collection stands as a creative call to arms and focuses on responsible design and sourcing to protect both planet and wearer.” — Christopher Raeburn
“It’s about escaping life, going to Noel’s house party and the adventures of kids’ coloring books.” — Liam Hodges
“This season’s collection explores
A Texan was taking a taxi tour of London and was in a hurry. As they went by the Tower of London the cabby explained what it was and that construction
started in 1346 and it was completed in 1412.
The Texan replied, “Shoot, a little ol’ tower like that? In Houston we’d have that thing up in two weeks!”
The cab passed the House of Parliament next, the cabby stating that it started construction in 1544 and was completed 1618.
“Boy, we put up a bigger one than that in Dallas and it only took a year!”
As they passed Westminster Abbey the cabby was silent.
“Whoa! What’s that over there?” asked the Texan.
“Darned if I know, wasn’t there yesterday…”
Received from Thomas Ellsworth.
The Good, Clean Funnies List
© ℗ This compilation 1992 EMI Records Ltd.
© ℗ 2002 Collegium
HIS AND HERS: The coed juggernaut keeps gathering steam.
One of London’s most anticipated men’s shows, J.W. Anderson, will vacate that calendar from January and shift to a coed display timed with the British capital’s fashion week for women in February.
The fall 2018 collections are to be paraded jointly on Feb. 17, and the London-based brand will stage two shows a year and not four.
In the past month alone, Balenciaga and Salvatore Ferragamo are among brands shifting to a combined women’s and men’s format from next season.
Etro, Dsquared2, Calvin Klein, Burberry, Kenzo, Moschino, Vivienne Westwood, Tom Ford and Cédric Charlier are among others to have already jumped on the bandwagon.
Generally, having one display instead of two per season allows brands to reduce costs, while presenting a cohesive fashion message that works for many labels in an increasingly gender-blurry world — and one increasingly thin on men’s fashion publications.
Prized for his fast-paced shows and daring designs, Anderson was recently honored by the British Fashion Council as British Designer of the Year for Women’s Wear for his J.W. Anderson collection and Accessories Designer of the Year for Loewe during a gala event at Royal Albert Hall.
Snoop Dogg knows that you’re only as young as you feel and judging from the way he lives his life the Hip-Hop OG loves to live by Jay-Z’s mantra, 40 is the new 20.
In his visuals to the October London assisted “Go On” that much is evident as the Doggfather throws a pool party where it seems like anyone over 35 isn’t allowed unless it’s Snoop himself of course.
Meanwhile over in UK Skepta is joined by A$ AP Rocky and A$ AP Nast in his clip to “Ghost Ride” which features some old school gritty cinematography reminiscent of our beloved Video Music Box days.
Check out the rest of today’s drops and some joints you might’ve missed over the weekend including work from China Mac featuring Young M.A, Lil Durk & Tee Grizzley, and more.
SNOOP DOGG FT. OCTOBER LONDON – “GO ON”
SKEPTA FT. A$ AP ROCKY & A$ AP NAST – “GHOST RIDE”
CHINA MAC FT. YOUNG M.A – “SAY A PRAYER”
LIL DURK & TEE GRIZZLEY – “FLYERS UP”
BOOSIE BADAZZ – “Me, Myself & I”
YUNG LEAN – “RED BOTTOM SKY”
BLOCK 125 & TOMMY GUNN – “OUT THE DIRT”
BRAINSTORM – “VICES”
Alice Temperley referenced a myriad of influences — such as 20th-century female explorers, nature, archeology and Peter Beard’s travel journals — for pre-fall. The Temperley woman was a dynamic, wandering traveler who was on a journey and spent her days exploring.
Temperley juxtaposed feminine aspects of the range with more masculine shapes, which added a cool edge to her relaxed and contemporary lineup of daywear, tailoring and eveningwear.
She incorporated cotton drill men’swear tailoring, oversized silhouettes and cinched-in waists against soft chiffon fabrics and florals. There was a jumpsuit that featured a bold graphic embroidery influenced by Tibetan Tiger rugs. A tailored khaki suit was belted at the waist. The jacket, which came a bit oversized, was paired with wide-leg cropped trousers.
For eveningwear, she concentrated on spines and nature as embellishments. She employed sequins and mirrored Perspex, which were hand-cut. She looked at the spines of leaves, animal prints and fossils and devised geometric patterns, which were hand-sewn as accents on floor-sweeping gowns and jumpsuits.
The designer worked in a palette filled with camel, green, khaki, dark olive, pecan, saffron, savannah, scarlet, turmeric and vermilion.
© ℗ 2017 London Symphony Orchestra
KING’S CROSS CARHARTT: Carhartt Work In Progress, the fashion proposition from the American workwear brand, has opened its first London flagship in the newly-revitalized neighborhood near King’s Cross train station.
Located at 2 Pancras Square, near Nike, &OtherStories and Jigsaw, the 2,500-square feet store spans two levels and also houses a coffee shop. It carries the full Carhartt WIP men’s and women’s ranges and collaborations, with prices ranging from 25 pounds for a watch beanie, to 400 pounds for outerwear.
The interiors are meant to channel a “rugged utilitarianism” with canvas wall panels and display units designed in hues of brown and tan. Floors are done in concrete while aluminium lamps hang from the ceiling. Designer Faye Toogood created the post-industrial brass fixtures as well as the overall look of the store.
Brand director Wilfried Atzert said Carhartt specifically wanted to be in the neighborhood. “King’s Cross has had a transformation. The area is home to Central Saint Martins as well as London’s Eurostar international terminal. The surrounding area is in the middle of a very interesting expansion – offering a diverse mix of shops, bars, restaurants and headquarters as well.”
Launched in 1989 in Europe, Carhartt Work In Progress puts a trendy spin
Johnny Depp, Kenneth Branagh join all-star ‘Orient Express’ cast at premiere – Rough Cut (No reporter narration)
As the world turns flat-earther B.o.B continues to go about his business as usual and release some interesting videos.
Such is the case for his latest clip to the London Jae and Young Dro assisted “Tweakin” where B.o.B visits a marijuana facility and takes viewers on a trip through the mind of man trippin’ off that greenery.
Speaking of green in his video for “Lil B*tch” Don Q finds himself counting stacks of dead presidents in his private office. With all that money someone should tell him a money counting machine costs a few hundred bucks and can save him some time. Just sayin’.
Check out the rest of today’s drops including work from Kodak Black featuring Plies, 88Glam, and more.
B.O.B FT. LONDON JAE & YOUNG DRO – “TWEAKIN”
DON Q – “LIL B*TCH”
KODAK BLACK FT. PLIES – “TOO MUCH MONEY”
88GLAM – “12”
FLYING LOTUS – “POST REQUISTE”
BOOBIE HOLIDAY – “CRYBABY”
Sci-fi fans dressed up in their best fancy dress in London on Friday (October 27) for one of the UK’s biggest celebrations of sci-fi culture. Rough cut (no reporter narration)
© ℗ Originally Recorded 1934, 1946, 1950, 1951, 1952, 1953, 1955, 1957, 1962, 1965 Sony Music Entertainment
© ℗ 2017 Grand Hustle, LLC Under exclusive license to Roc Nation
Popular musical “Hair” celebrates its fiftieth anniversary with a Trump-influenced relaunch in London. Jane Witherspoon reports
Police on both sides of the Atlantic are investigating Harvey Weinstein over allegations of sexual assault as the scandal surrounding the disgraced Hollywood movie mogul mounts.
Van Gogh inspired film “Loving Vincent” premieres in London. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).
© ℗ © 2008 The Comedy Store Ltd
Channing Tatum and Adam Driver walk the red carpet for the premiere of their new film ‘Lucky Logan.’ Rough cut (no reporter narration).
The latest stage in London’s Crossrail project: getting it ready for the people.
“Thor” star Tom Hiddleston is to play Hamlet on the London stage — but fans will need a bit of luck to get a ticket.
Actor Daniel Radcliffe has come to the aid of a man who was mugged by moped-riding attackers in London.
DILARA’S PROPAGANDA: Luisa Via Roma’s Andrea Panconesi headed to London Thursday night to mark the launch of an exclusive capsule with the emerging designer Dilara Findikoglu.
The Florence-based retailer fully embraced Findikoglu’s rebellious spirit for the evening, hosting a dinner in a grand room at East London’s Masonic Hall, complete with rock music and withered roses scattered on the dinner table.
SEE ALSO: Dilara Findikoglu on Fashion, Politics and Central Saint Martins >>
“We’ve always supported young designers since Day One, and Dilara presents the new generation, a very specific part of the young generation,” said Panconesi, chief executive officer at Luisa Via Roma.
The launch of the capsule, which currently consists of a red tracksuit set, will be followed by other products in the future. It is part of a new initiative by the Italian retailer called LVR Editions that kicked off on June 16.
Andrea Panconesi and Petite Meller
SEE ALSO: LuisaViaRoma to Launch LVR Editions >>
Each month, a different co-branded product will be on sale in a dedicated section of luisaviaroma.com. Sergio Rossi, Dolce & Gabbana and Superga are among the brands set to participate in the project.
“Luisa Via Roma [is] one of my biggest stockists. They ordered so much of the last collection,”
Irish rock group U2 kicked off the European leg of “The Joshua Tree” tour on Saturday by returning to the album that tackled their love-hate relationship with America and propelled them to superstardom when it was released 30 years ago. Rough cut (no reporter narration)
For the first time, Carolina Herrera will be selling her wedding gowns in the U.K. through a new partnership with Moda Operandi.
From Nov. 25 to 28, a Carolina Herrera Bridal trunk show will be held at Moda Operandi’s London store in Belgravia. Shoppers will be the first to pre-order gowns from the fall 2016 collection. The alliance is in step with the American designer company’s focus on expanded global distribution. The three-day event will mark the first time Moda Operandi has gotten into bridal in such a major way.
Brides-to-be will find fluid silhouettes with embellished intricate lace scallop necklines and a bodice that appears to have a panted motif due to crystals and hand-placed lace on organza. Other styles feature chantilly and guipure lace appliqués on tulle, and sheer layers and pleats. For fall, there is also a palette of blush tones and nudes.
Since she launched her bridal collection in 1987, Herrera has dressed a range of well-known brides including, recently, model Hilary Rhoda, who wed former New York Ranger Sean Avery last month. Olivia Palermo wore a Carolina Herrera ensemble for her wedding last year. Many fans of the designer know her wedding gowns from Kristin Stewart’s “Bella Swan”
Cars featured in the movie “Spectre,” including James Bond’s Aston Martin DB10, to go on display in London. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).
Kate Winslet says she’s now a sewing pro thanks to her role in “The Dressmaker.” Rough Cut (no reporter narration).
© ℗ © 2008 The Comedy Store Ltd
Baby Love singer Petite Meller performs her first ever UK gig. Jane Witherspoon reports.
© © 2010 Sire Records.
Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara attend the London Film Festival premiere of ‘Carol.’ Rough cut (no reporter narration)
© © 2007 Pink Stuff Inc
Johnny Depp and Benedict Cumberbatch present their crime-drama ‘Black Mass’ to London Film Festival. John Russell reports.
© ℗ 1995 Point Music Ltd.
Rosalind Franklin (1920-1958) was a British crystallographer who, in a laboratory at King’s College in London, was able to capture the key to DNA on an x-ray. This led directly to the discovery of the double helix and, ultimately, a Nobel Prize. But not for Franklin; it seems that the telltale x-ray (“Photograph 51”) was more or less pilfered by Franklin’s research partner Maurice Wilkins. He ultimately shared the Nobel with James Watson and Francis Crick, while the contribution of Franklin–who by that point had died of ovarian cancer–was more or less left in the dust.
The second-biggest surprise of Anna Ziegler’s new play, Photograph 51, is that Ziegler has managed to take this drily historic tale and turn it into an engrossing scientific whodunit, or rather who’lldoit. Ziegler is an American playwright, whose A Delicate Ship was well-received in August in an off-Broadway production by the Playwrights Realm. In Photograph 51–produced and directed by Michael Grandage, of Frost/Nixon and Red–the drama more or less bristles.
Franklin’s failing, in Ziegler’s telling, was not so much that she was Jewish and she was a woman, but that she didn’t play well with others; said others being white male Christians who see no impropriety in taking the fruits of her labor and would think nothing of sending her to the back of the lab to make a pot of tea.
The biggest surprise in Photograph 51, though, is the performance of Nicole Kidman as the fair Rosalind. Kidman has had an impressive film career, including a 2003 Oscar for “The Hours,” but I–not having seen her on stage (and, literally, in the flesh) since David Hare’s overhyped but underwhelming Blue Room in 1998–was not prepared for the Kidman now on the stage of the Noël Coward. She carries the play, seemingly effortlessly; Rosalind–as drawn by Ziegler–stands out as the victor in a world of men, and Kidman does the same. We never, for a moment, doubt the character’s strength; and Kidman’s great strength in Photograph 51 is that we see and believe in Franklin all through without the distraction that can intrude when–in mid-performance–the folks in the audience remember that that’s a movie star up there.
Grandage’s compelling work is no surprise, nor are the contributions of his frequent designer Christopher Oram (of Frost/Nixon, Red and Wolf Hall). Stephen Campbell Moore makes a perfect foil as Rosalind’s lab partner Wilkins, with amusing turns by Will Attenborough as Watson (with upstanding hair that looks like it was permanently jolted over in the electrics lab) and Patrick Kennedy (as a young colleague from America). But it’s Kidman who brings life to Ziegler’s Photograph 51.
Another electric performance is on view down the block at the Duke of York’s. No present-day theatergoer will be surprised by this; given that it’s Mark Rylance on the boards, the surprise would be if the performance were not commanding.
Renaissance music expert Claire van Kampen might not be familiar by name, although anyone who attended Rylance’s 2013 Twelfth Night/Richard III at the Belasco will attest to her abilities as composer and musical director. She is a long-time artistic associate of Rylance, and wife as well. Her musical interests no doubt brought her attention to the strange tale of King Philippe V of Spain–grandson of the Sun King, Louis XIV of France–and the internationally-famous Italian castrato, Farinelli (Carlo Broschi). In 1737, Farinelli visited the court of the bipolar Philippe, and his golden voice seemed to lift the King out of his depression. So much so, that the singer spent an extended period with Philippe in Madrid and the Spanish countryside.
Van Kampen has turned the tale into a full-scale drama, loaded with selections by Handel. In Philippe–who begins the action infirmly sprawled on his bed, fishing for goldfish in a fishbowl–she has contrived a perfect role for Rylance. He is well matched by Sam Crane as Farinelli and Melody Grove as Philippe’s Queen Isabella. The three stars are joined by Iestyn Davies, who sings the role of Farinelli. Van Kampen and Dove simply have him stand onstage beside Crane, in identical costume, and sing like a falsetto canary–and this works extremely well.
Photo: Simon Annand
At times, the triangle and all that music make us think that van Kampen was somehow thinking–consciously or un–of Peter Shaffer’s Amadeus. There are also moments, I’m afraid, where you might feel maybe you’d rather be watching Rylance in Shaffer’s Amadeus.
Even so, van Kampen and Rylance have given us a juicy, bounteously musical evening. John Dove has directed the production, which originated at Shakespeare’s Globe, and it is sumptuously designed by Jonathan Fensom. The musicians adorn a balcony overlooking the action; a couple dozen ticketbuyers are seated in onstage boxes; and the action spills out into the auditorium. There is also an arresting sequence in which the singing Farinelli flies, in this historic playhouse which hosted the original 1904 production of Peter Pan.
Photograph 51, by Anna Ziegler, opened September 14, 2015 and continues through November 21 at the Noël Coward Theatre. Farinelli and the King, by Claire van Kampen, opened September 29, 2015 and continues through December 5 at the Duke of York’s Theatre
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© ℗ 2015 London Symphony Orchestra
Feminist protesters storm the red carpet at the premiere of ‘Suffragette’, the opening night film at the London Film Festival. Rough Cut (no reporter narration)
Get ready for a sex-fueled rampage across London brought to you by Private and award winning UK director Disanto. Boasting a collection of the finest international babes, as well as a vast variety of Britains busty home-grown beauties, London is the city of opportunity for any young hung stud looking for a cosmopolitan collection to conquer. Privates team of German bachelors do just that as they plunder the big city for pussy, enjoying the riches of Misha Cross, Karlie Simon, Tiffany Doll, Stella Cox and the redhead firecracker Amarna Miller. Although these girls may differ in nationality they share a common interest in fit foreign men and Team Deutschland is happy to oblige. London, the city of dreams and the sex hub of the world, cum see for yourself!
Get ready for a sex-fueled rampage across London brought to you by Private and award winning UK director Disanto. Boasting a collection of the finest international babes, as well as a vast variety of Britainâs busty home-grown beauties!
Scene Number: 1
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BURNING OUT? Mulberry and its new creative director Johnny Coca hosted the launch of one very weighty tome about London’s buzzing creative community — and its future.
“London Burning: Portraits From a Creative City” is a snapshot of the state of fashion, art, cinema, theatre, music, architecture and technology edited by the writer and publisher Hossein Amirsadeghi and the editor Maryam Eisler.
Published by Thames & Hudson, it contains more than 100 new interviews with the likes of Nicholas Serota, director of Tate; Antony Gormley; Gilbert & George; Fergus Henderson and Ruthie Rogers; Alexandra Shulman; Grayson Perry; and Coca himself, who said it was “exhilarating” to take part in the project.
“I’m fascinated by the creativity of others — and instinctively support projects that celebrate it,” said Coca, who saw his inclusion in the book as a “true welcome” back to London, where he has worked before, and taught fashion students at Central Saint Martins.
The event took place at the Institute of Contemporary Arts with guests including Saffron Aldridge, Bethan Laura Wood, Mollie Dent Brocklehurst, Mark Hix, Mat Collishaw and Ron Arad. Artists including Delilah, Jordan Stephens of Rizzle Kicks, Natalia Kremen, NTS Radio and Charlie Siem performed.
However, some troubling issues emerged during
JEROME’S NEW HOME: French accessories designer Jerome Dreyfuss will open his first stand-alone store in London later this month, on the corner of Bruton Street and Berkeley Square.
The store, at 20 Berkeley Square, spans 1,296 square feet, with interiors designed by Franklin Azzi. The design was inspired by Dreyfuss’ love of modernism and, more specifically, Brutalism, as well as the creations of Carlo Scarpa.
Materials include different types of concrete and oak. “I have always been fascinated by London, an amazing city in constant renewal, forever changing, forever daring. And on a personal note, I love the English people and their humor. I think it fits exactly with the spirit of the brand,” he said.
The new space, formerly occupied by Zenith Bank, is a few steps away from Dreyfuss’ wife’s Isabel Marant’s store, and will be his eighth stand-alone shop. He also sells through shops-in-shop worldwide and at stores including Harrods, Liberty, Matches, Net-a-porter.com, and Le Bon Marché.
By Michael Roddy LONDON (Reuters) – Spanish tenor Jose Carreras, 68, a founding member of the Three Tenors classical trio, will give the premiere of a retrospective show entitled "A Life in Music" next year at London's Royal Albert Hall. The Barcelona native, who became a star of the world opera stage in the 1970s and later rose to superstardom alongside Placido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti in the Grammy-winning tenor trio, is scheduled to perform the show on May 15, 2016, the promoters said on Thursday. Carreras said the show would include greatest hits and special surprises.
LONDON CALLING: Italian luxury cashmere label Fabiana Filippi officially unveiled its first British store on London’s Conduit Street during London Fashion Week.
The 2,300-square-foot space stands at 42 Conduit Street and spans four floors of a grand Victorian town house. The Perugia, Italy-based label tapped Italian architect Nicola Quadri to design the store, which has a warm-yet-modern feel. In terms of furniture, the label has honed in on Scandinavian pieces, such as midcentury cherry wood coffee tables by Triva-NK; Sixties-era sofas and armchairs by Carl Malmsten and a Fifties brass and crystal chandelier designed by Hans-Agne Jakobsson for Markaryd.
The store carries Fabiana Filippi’s entire collection of women’s wear, and is near Berluti, Vivienne Westwood, Moschino and Donna Karan on the street.
Mario Filippi Coccetta, founder and chief executive officer of Fabiana Filippi, said that while the label chose the Conduit Street location partly for its “proximity to Bond Street,” he liked that Conduit Street is “more intimate and relaxed.” He added that company’s London opening is part of its strategy to open stores in “the main European capitals.”
Earlier this year, the retailer opened units in Paris and Rome, adding to its boutiques elsewhere in France and Italy, and in Lithuania, Russia and Sweden.
Ridley Scott and Matt Damon talk about their upcoming projects, the ‘Prometheus’ and ‘Bourne’ sequels at ‘The Martian’ European premiere. Rollo Ross reports.
The sartorial action wasn’t just on the runways as celebrities were making their own stylish statements in the front row. From Burberry and Hunter to Versus Versace, celebs including Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and Salma Hayek were out and about during London Fashion Week.
LONDON — The modern fashion show is entertaining and glamorous, but over in roughly 12 minutes flat.
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 3” exhibition that opens to the public at 180 Strand here on Monday is designed to decrypt the spectacle, and exalt all the craft and creativity that goes into it.
“Fashion is a circus. There’s very little discussion about the content. But you have to go into the before, the during and the after. And if you do it in an appropriate way, it’s unforgettable,” Michael Burke, chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton, said during a walkthrough of the sprawling, high-tech showcase. “We’re experimenting with how to make you feel the show more intensely than being at the show.”
The show in question is Nicolas Ghesquière’s fall collection, paraded in a series of geodesic domes erected at the foot of the Frank Gehry-designed Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris in March. A skeletal example of one dome lords over the ceiling of the darkened room that opens the exhibition, cuing the midcentury period that the French designer frequently mines. Visitors then traverse a futuristic tunnel that plunges them into the exhibition.
Even fashion professionals could easily miss key details from the front row, including
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MOUSE IN THE HOUSE: Challenging the notion that the fashion world takes itself too seriously is the “Minnie: Style Icon” exhibition at Blacks Members Club. Walt Disney’s Minnie Mouse was a fashionista from the outset after all: SHE made her debut alongside Mickey in a 1928 animation based on the Twenties flapper as portrayed by actress Colleen Moore, and her signature polka dot skirt was inspired by Coco Chanel’s Easy Jersey collection.
The show, a partnership between Disney and the British Fashion Council, explores the character of the world’s most stylish mouse and her influence on fashion and pop culture via archive imagery, sketches, celebrity portraits and fashion spreads. It also showcases exclusive photography by model Georgia May Jagger.
Highlights include Herb Ritts’ 1987 shot of Madonna sporting a pair of mouse ears in her Tokyo hotel room; a similarly accessorized Chanel Iman on the back of an elephant for Vogue Germany; and pictures from earlier this year of British fashion designer Ashley William’s Minnie Style collection for Dazed magazine starring Georgia May Jagger – not to mention Jagger’s own snaps of Minnie in a domestic setting. “I’m really excited to be including my own photographic work, interpreting Minnie’s style and making
British girls may be known for their artfully rumpled hair, but make no mistake—it takes a masterful hand to conjure that kind of easy insouciance. Once something of a novelty in the city, blow-dry bars (and their quirkier braiding counterparts) have been taking London by storm, with a flurry of new speed studios opening their doors. If you’re in the city this weekend, there’s no shortage of destinations worth adding to your black book.
The Bob Bar at George Northwood
Ever wanted to try a bob but weren’t sure you could actually commit? Then step into hairstylist George Northwood’s salon and have a seat at his “try before you buy” Bob Bar. There, a lineup of realistic-looking wigs inspired by the signature lengths of Jennifer Lawrence, Gwyneth Paltrow (as Margot Tenenbaum), Alexa Chung, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley can be tried on and adjusted before you submit to the shears.
24 Wells Street, London, W1T 3PH
Duck & Dry
Whether you’re in need of an updo before a big event (but don’t have the time or the inclination to be in the hairstylist’s chair for too long) or you just want a clean, swingy blowout, Duck & Dry on King’s Road has become the city’s go-to for speed hair treatments. There are 16 looks to choose from on the menu—and, yes, you can duck in and duck out for any of them.
335-337 King’s Rd, London SW3 5ES
Braid Bar at Selfridges
The concept is simple, the execution spot-on. Realizing there wasn’t something that catered to the fun and frivolous nature of the braid, Braid Bar founders Sarah Hiscox and Willa Burton set about launching their power plaiting studio in the style of a blowout bar. After popping up at events and festivals such as Port Eliot and Secret Garden, The Braid Bar has found a permanent home in Selfridges; during London Fashion Week, they’ve also set up a pop-up outpost on Brewer Street, right opposite the British Fashion Council’s Headquarters.
Ground Floor, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London, W1A 1AB
“Blow-dries, brows, and beauty” is the motto of South Kensington’s Aer hair bar, founded by former New Yorker Anushka Lakhani. And as promised, multitasking is made simple here, whether that means stocking up on Oribe products or adding on a brow and lash tint before you leave.
172 Old Brompton Road, London, SW5 0BA
Conveniently located next door to spinning haven Psycle (London’s answer to Soul Cycle), it’s now possible to sneak in a morning workout before dropping in next door afterwards for a quick blow-dry. Services here are made to have staying power, starting with a serious shampoo using Philip B products and a divine scalp massage that results in extra volume and bounce that looks that much better after you’ve slept on it.
74 Mortimer Street, London, W1W 7RZ
If there’s one topic that heiress Tamara Ecclestone is familiar with, it’s a blowout. Named after her two-year-old line of volume sprays, dry shampoos, and hair oils, [http://showbeauty.com], Show Dry’s Notting Hill studio features sleek design and the city’s best hairstylists. Clients can book an Uber home through the studio’s app, meaning a rainy day in London never has to spoil your blowout.
173 Westbourne Grove, London, W11 2RS
The post 6 Blow-Dry, Braid, and Bob Bars Worth Visiting in London This Week appeared first on Vogue.
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The “tragus,” the “rook,” the “conch”: A new vernacular of vocabulary has been circulating amid fashion editors, street style stars and British It girls this week, as they discuss which body part to get pierced at a highly anticipated pop-up during London Fashion Week. Sparked, perhaps, by the carryover effect of Brooklyn’s booming piercing culture, or the sight of Givenchy’s elaborate lobe and septum rings on the fashion house’s Fall 2015 runway, the trend is now gaining traction in London. But while its visual impact is immediate, its subtler nuances can be hard to get right. The jewelry needs to be delicate, the placement is key, and an expert eye is needed to make sure that the earrings sit ‘just so.’ So when it was announced that New York City–based piercer and jewelry designer Maria Tash—whose clients include Zoë Kravitz, Scarlett Johansson, and Gwyneth Paltrow—was doing a pop-up in Holland Park this week, a flurry of bookings immediately followed suit. Open for only four days at the Josh Wood Atelier in Holland Park, we suggest you start queuing up now.
Josh Wood x Maria Tash Piercing Pop-Up, September 18-22
Josh Wood Atelier
6 Lansdowne Mews, London W11 3AN
For bookings, call 0203.393.0933
The post The Celebrity Piercing Guru With a London Pop-Up Worth Visiting This Week appeared first on Vogue.
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PLAYING CHICKEN: KFC has recruited edgy London men’s wear designer Katie Eary in its mission to demonstrate how much can be done in a lunch hour.
As part of the fast food brand’s #PackMoreIntoLunch campaign, KFC challenged Eary to create a capsule women’s wear collection for spring 2016 in 60 minutes.
On the day of the challenge, 25 machinists sewed like crazy to create 13 looks, worn by 10 models in a catwalk show at the Old Truman Brewery in London.
The collection, like the playful and irreverent men’s wear Eary is known for, was brightly colored, with a palette rooted in fluorescent orange and green.
Butterflies were the print motif, superimposed over hypersized KFC chickens — it shouldn’t have worked but it did. Floaty silk chiffon minidresses and cropped tops came with a lovely ostrich feather trim in neon green.
A red bias-cut slipdress that reached just above the ankles managed to be sexy and sophisticated, while the twist-front swimsuits had definite commercial appeal.
Of course, some preparations had been made. The collection had been finalized two weeks before: All the patterns had been made, and almost everything had been pre-cut for the 60-minute sew-a-thon.
There was a rawness to some looks that probably wasn’t intentional,
LOMA’S KNITS BRANCH OUT: London knitwear label Loma, which is showing its spring 2016 collection at Coterie this weekend, already counts Nordstrom, Ron Herman and Neiman Marcus among its U.S. stockists, and will launch in Saks Fifth Avenue in October.
Now founder Lorna Masters, who started the label in 2012, plans to expand closer to her home turf. “When I started the range I was living in Australia and that’s why it resonated so well, especially in California, because the lifestyles are very similar,” said Masters, a Royal College of Art graduate who designed for Nicole Farhi and French Connection before starting her own label. “California is a great market for knitwear because they don’t wear coats.”
The label has recently launched at The Shop at Bluebird and Harvey Nichols in London, and Masters said that now the label plans to expand into the U.K. and Europe, having recently appointed a German sales agent, U. Schramm-Badenhop. She will also present the collection during Tranoi in Paris in October, and is considering a presentation in London.
The label is focused on fine cashmere knits, in what Masters called “architectural” shapes. “I’ve always liked the idea of a bohemian look but done in a very
A fan experience opens in London featuring full-scale recreations of the set of the hit TV series ‘Friends’. Holly Rubenstein reports.
LONDON — From Balkan gypsies and Balinese textiles to hot Havana and Seventies Honolulu, designers took inspiration from all around the globe.
“Balkan gypsies and the magical realism portrayed in Kusturica’s ‘Time of the Gypsies’ — a film that demonstrates the traditional Romani culture, but also explores the influence of Eighties pop culture and its ability to permeate even the most isolated of cultures. This collection explores the juxtaposition between tradition and imposing modernity, and the dialogue between them.”
“The color is crisp, the clothes are casual. A graphic simplicity of one color set against black or white. Swiss cotton shirting, opaque but fine and papery to the touch. Cool Irish linens from sheer to closely woven ‘linen denim.’ The waist is emphasized with oversize trousers secured with an English bridle leather belt. Skirts are shorter and also focus on the waist, with a gentle A-line silhouette. Refined but sporty, the clothes are teamed with athletic sandals and white canvas shoes for a youthful spirit.”
“I have taken a journey through the incredible island of Bali. I have been inspired by the intricate Indonesian textiles and paintings and the breathtaking natural beauty. The collection is bold and graphic with opulent embellishments and
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B.o.B. has released “Ice,” a cut featuring production from Zaytoven and a guest spot from London Jae. On the tune, B.o.B. boasts of his sexual prowess. “Flew the b***h in from outta town / She want Benjamins she want Franklins / Shawty know what I’m thinkin’ / He gon’ smash it no plankin / Pull them panties off to the side / And I’m banging man I’m banging.”
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Film festival spin-off Sundance London will return to the city of London after a year hiatus, organisers announce. Rollo Ross reports.
If you’ve got a quarter-million dollars lying around and a hankering to feel like a Gilded Age baron, have we got the gemstone for you.
The Hope Spinel, a 50.13-carat spinel gem once belonging to banker Henry Philip Hope, is up for auction later this month. Hope’s vast collection contained some 700 gems before his death in 1939, including the famous Hope Diamond, now at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.
The spinel hasn’t been available for 98 years, and will be sold during the Bonhams London Fine Jewellery sale later this month for an estimated $ 240,000 to $ 310,000.
“You just don’t see pieces of this quality and provenance on the open market very often. It’s very exciting,” Emily Barber, a representative for Bonhams, said in a statement.
Spinels have similar refractive qualities to diamonds and garnets, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and they’re a fairly common occurrence in nature. Forbes noted that they’re often mistaken for rubies.
Barber said the Hope Spinel’s “exceptional transparency, flawless cut, beautiful color and large size” classify the stone as an “exceptional treasure of nature.”
Interested? Get to bidding on Sept. 24.
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MACDONALD’S MENSWEAR LINE: London designer Julien Macdonald — known for his high-octane women’s wear — is making his first foray into men’s wear. When the designer shows his spring women’s collection during London Fashion Week later this month, he will include a handful of men’s looks on the runway, too.
Macdonald said while he had “always been interested” in designing a men’s wear collection, “I’ve never really found the right time to do it.” However, he said he’d been hit with inspiration when designing his current women’s collection.
The men’s looks revolve around knitwear – a Macdonald signature – and prints. Designs include layered, weblike knit sweaters and pants, and printed T-shirts. Among his inspirations were a recent trip to Bali, and the region’s architecture and traveling culture, and the designer has worked with fabrics such as techno gabardine, Neoprene, cotton and silk knits and what Macdonald called “exciting print techniques.”
Macdonald is resolute about who he wants the collection to appeal to. “It isn’t [a] gentleman,” he said. “I’ve taken inspiration from my own clothes and things I’ve seen guys in London wearing, especially in the East End, the Shoreditch area of London where the most fashionable kids hang out. It’s almost like a unisex of
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LONDON — Annette Worsley-Taylor, a former creative director of London Fashion Week who helped reignite global interest in British fashion, died this week at the age of 71. The cause of her death was lung cancer, a British Fashion Council spokesman said.
Worsley-Taylor was a driving force in establishing London Fashion Week. After launching the New Wave exhibition at London’s Ritz Hotel in 1974, in order to introduce young British designers to the international market, she went on to found London Designer Collections in 1975. After establishing the collections, the executive went on to win funding from the British government’s Department of Trade and Industry, to support a newly formed British Fashion Council. After that, Worsley-Taylor established the London Designer Show in 1990, which the BFC called a “prototype” for London Fashion Week in its current form.
A combination of the seemingly scatty yet surprisingly steely, the tireless Worsley-Taylor was an integral part of the renaissance of London fashion in the early Eighties when the likes of BodyMap, Katharine Hamnett, Betty Jackson and, later, Rifat Özbek and John Galliano put the British capital back on the global fashion map as their shows became must-sees for international retailers. She remained a champion of
Winston Churchill had a very hard time holding onto money, throughout his life, yet he wore bespoke…well, everything. Henry Poole & Co. was not Churchill’s first bespoke tailor but it was his longest-lasting tailoring relationship. Henry Poole himself was long gone even by the time Churchill arrived, but Poole’s descendants continue to ply his elegant trade very close by to the family’s pioneering original location on Savile Row. I decided to pay them a visit.
I entered through the doors at Number 15 and waited. A very young Russian dandy was analyzing pocket square options (as near as I could decipher) in Russian with his girl friend. Their purchase finally made, the couple exited and the gentleman who had been attending to them, Sales Manager Anthony Rowland, pivoted to greet me.
I had a very cordial time working with the current Chairman of Poole & Co., Mr. Angus Cundey, putting together my book, CHURCHILL STYLE. Mr. Cundey was most forthcoming with facts and photos, including shots of Poole’s original, handwritten, account ledger pages for Winston Churchill going back to 1905. I could see those ledger books now spread out on a table in anticipation of my arrival. I gravitated to them.
“Mr. Cundey is here and expecting you,” Anthony Rowland informed me. “But he is engaged at the moment and, with apologies, asks that you wait.”
The ledger books make for great reading. Not only is the calligraphic script entrancing, Churchill’s life is spelled out in the margins. His wedding suit appears on the 1908 page. The ascendances (and descendances) of his career are all accounted for in the scrawled titles of his ever-shifting cabinet posts, as are his address changes, from his first bachelor flat at 105 Mount Street.
“He really was quite slim when we first got hold of him,” Anthony Rowland pointed out.
Churchill probably saw Mr. Cundey’s grandfather the first time he came in. We had over three hundred tailors back then, with fourteen cutters on the premises. If you can imagine, from the end of what is now Abercrombie & Fitch — which would have been the western branch of the Bank of England back then — Henry Poole occupied Numbers 36, 37, 38 and 39 along Savile Row. It was a massive enterprise and one big part of it was the livery department, where customers often spent far more outfitting their servants than they spent on themselves. The rest were workrooms and the showroom, which was a very grand, opulent place with pink marble columns and gilt ceilings.
I knew that Henry Poole, in 1848, had knocked down the stable block at the back of his 4 Burlington Street premises and built a new showroom fronting on Savile Row, where his rear staff entrance had been. He thus became Savile Row’s first tailoring establishment.
“The building next door was hit by an incendiary device during the Blitz,” Anthony Rowland now told me. “We had an oil drum on our roof that came alight. It ended up with the fire brigade hosing everything down. These ledgers were all tightly packed in the basement. The water found its way down there but the ledgers survived with just the outer parts damaged.”
“Henry Poole, when he took over from his father, James Poole, in 1846, threw out forty years-worth of ledgers,” Mr. Rowland laughed.
Lord knows whose names were in those! Louis Napoleon III was Henry’s first big royal customer; five years later, the Prince of Wales, soon to be Edward VII, came aboard. Both men became friends of Henry Poole’s. Henry was a masterful networker and marketer, for his day. He moved in all the right circles. That’s how we come to have forty different royal warrants from around the world; a world’s record, I believe. The couple I just had in here from Russia, I was showing them the royal warrants of Tsars Alexander II and III.
In 1961, Henry Poole & Co. was forced out of its venerable premises on Savile Row by the Westminster Council. “They basically took the property, compulsorily purchased it and tore down our grand showroom for a car park,” Mr. Rowland observed grimly.
We didn’t return to the Row for twenty years, until 1982, when Mr. Cundey brought us back. Unfortunately, Savile Row today is again changing very rapidly. Big businesses that can afford big rents are coming in and pushing out the bespoke showrooms. The Council doesn’t seem to care. They don’t seem to appreciate history or heritage. They will once it’s gone. Thankfully, we do still have the ledgers.
Henry Poole died in 1876. He left behind quite a mess; a morass of debts and a tangled will. His cousin Samuel Cundey had worked beside Henry for years. It was Cundey’s son, Howard, who rescued the business. Howard Cundey’s sons, Sam and Hugh, then navigated the company through the war, it’s aftermath, and the 1961 exile. Now Sam’s son, Angus, who brought Poole & Co. back to Savile Row, and Angus’s young son, Simon, maintain the present and point the way toward the future.
I looked up to see silver-haired, 78-year-old Angus Cundey approaching from the rear of the showroom, resplendent in a blue pinstripe suit.
“So, you want to talk about Winston Churchill,” he smiled, dropping down into a chair beside me.
Well, you know he first came to us in 1905, when he bought a vast quantity of clothes that we finally delivered to him in 1906. And that’s how it went for a very long time; quite large quantities. We made his overcoats, we made all sorts of elaborate court dress for him. The one garment that he particularly loved was the Trinity House uniform, which is today on display at Chartwell.
“I’ll tell you something sad,” Angus Cundey went on, after a moment.
Churchill’s orders with us went lower and lower following the Wall Street Crash. He must have gotten very depressed because he no longer came in to see us, he would summon a cutter down to Chartwell. And my father told me that the cutter always returned quite cross because Mr. Winston Churchill would keep him waiting for at least an hour. Then, to make matters worse, he stopped paying his bills. By 1937, he owed us about 160 pounds. This upset my father very much. Finally, in 1940, on the very day that Churchill became Prime Minister, our accounts clerk sent a bill to 10 Downing Street. That was a wicked thing to do. What happened to the accounts clerk, I can’t say, but to my father’s dying day, he rued the loss of Winston Churchill, who we’d clothed for the whole of his life. Sir Winston did eventually pay the bill, but he never came to see us again.
Anthony Rowland had brought out a strikingly familiar-looking grey pinstripe suit.
“This is a suit of Churchill’s that we still make today,” Angus Cundey beamed. “We call it our Churchill and it is a perfect copy of one we used to make for him. I’d say we’ve sold about a hundred of them over the years. This is the Churchill style.”
“In Churchill’s day, the suits were much heavier; made from an 18-ounce flannel,” Anthony Rowland added:
Whereas this one is really a 10. We’ve otherwise tried to maintain the identical marbled grey affect, with the same pinstripe going through it. It is a three button coat with a waistcoat. The blue lining is more our artistic license; it probably would have been grey for Churchill, maybe even a black. The trousers are cut for braces and there is a button fly. Zips didn’t really come in until after the war.
And how much does it cost, I asked, indiscreetly?
“About £3,515,” Angus Cundey answered. “Back in 1939, it probably cost the same in equivalent value. Still, I am the first to admit these are extravagant prices. But you must realize, a cutter makes every bit of it by hand, from the stitches to the button holes. And its all done right here.”
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TEE TIME: House of Holland designer Henry Holland has designed a collection of T-shirts to mark this season’s London Fashion Weekend, a consumer event run by the British Fashion Council.
The three T-shirts come in designs inspired by Holland’s past collections: a psychedelic floral pattern; a clashing check and a black T emblazoned with the slogan “Fashion Werk,” all priced at 35 pounds, or $ 54. The T-shirts will be sold at London Fashion Weekend, which runs Sept. 24 through 27 at London’s Saatchi Gallery, and for a limited period before the event, when visitors buy tickets online.
House of Holland will also stage a runway show for the label’s fall collection during the event on Sept. 26, and model Daisy Lowe will interview Holland about his career. The biannual, ticketed event is made up of runway shows, designer talks, trend presentations and shopping galleries.
GETTY’S GLAM GIRL: Getty Images Gallery will mount a retrospective on Elizabeth Taylor and her fight to stamp out HIV and AIDS. Staged in connection with the Elizabeth Taylor Trust and The Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation, “Grit and Glamour” is to commemorate Taylor’s 30-year involvement in raising awareness about the illness. “Grit and Glamour” will feature 50 photographs ranging from studio portraits and contact sheets to backstage images, behind-the-scenes imagery and unpublished photos of Taylor’s career and philanthropic work.
“The aim of the exhibition was to celebrate Ms. Taylor’s courageous work in raising awareness of HIV/AIDS when it was hardly spoken about, and the title reflects this,” said Getty Images Gallery curator Susanna Harrison. “We wanted the images to reflect her incredible spirit and determination, whilst at the same time showcasing her legendary beauty and rise to become one of Hollywood’s best-loved actresses. Images range from her days as a teenage star and attending her first gala events right up to establishing her AIDS foundation. They show her as a wife, mother and actress with both candid shots and classic portraits,” she told WWD.
The show is to run from Oct. 9 to Nov. 7 at Getty Images Gallery in London. It will then