LVMH Draws Crowds With Fourth Edition of Open-Doors Event

PARIS — The long queues in front of leading luxury stores in Paris this weekend might suggest they were holding the high-end equivalent of a Black Friday sale.
But the crowds gathered outside Dior headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, the Guerlain flagship on Avenue des Champs-Elysées or the Chaumet salons on Place Vendôme weren’t looking to part with any cash — just to catch a glimpse behind the scenes of some of the 70 brands that form LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
From Oct. 12 to 14, the world’s biggest luxury group held the fourth edition of its Journées Particulières open-doors event, which gives members of the public worldwide a rare opportunity to meet the craftspeople who make everything from Louis Vuitton handbags to Tag Heuer watches and Berluti shoes.
The event is the brainchild of Antoine Arnault, head of communication and image of LVMH, who launched the biennial initiative in 2011 to counter a perception that the group was only interested in making money. It has steadily grown in size, with this year’s edition drawing a record 180,000 visitors, up from 145,000 in 2016.
Arnault kicked off proceedings with a cocktail party on Thursday at the group’s headquarters, where he posed with his father,

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EXCLUSIVE: LVMH Taps Designer to Revive Jean Patou

PARIS — LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton is applying its formidable finances and management might to revive the dormant Jean Patou fashion house, WWD has learned.
Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, is spearheading the project and has already selected and signed on a designer to lead it: Guillaume Henry.
Last March, Henry exited Nina Ricci and he is said to be passionate about the legacy of Patou, a French designer who brought modernity and buzz to fashion in the Twenties — and innovated in business with fragrances, logos and sport clothes.
LVMH is now in the throes of building teams around Henry with a view to launching the first collection of ready-to-wear and accessories in the second half of 2019.
It is understood the group views Patou as something of a niche, rarified name — and not its next megabrand. Consequently, LVMH will likely start with a single boutique, most likely in Paris, along with e-commerce and select wholesale partners.
The relaunch suggests the world’s largest luxury group is anticipating an easing of the streetwear craze, and a swing of the fashion pendulum back to sophisticated chic.

Afternoon Dress in Crepe De Chine by Jean Patou, 1926. 
Historia/REX/Shutterstock

Toledano confirmed hiring Henry exclusively to

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LVMH Opens Applications for Fifth Edition of LVMH Prize

OPEN CALL: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has opened applications for the fifth edition of its LVMH Prize for young fashion designers.
Candidates have until Feb. 4 to submit their applications on the web site lvmhprize.com, the French luxury conglomerate said on Friday. The winner, decided by a jury including LVMH’s top designers, will walk away with a cash prize of 300,000 euros plus a year of coaching from experts at LVMH.
Launched in 2013 and spearheaded by Delphine Arnault, second-in-command at Louis Vuitton and a key talent scout at the luxury group her family controls, the prize is open to designers under age 40 who have presented and sold at least two collections of men’s or women’s ready-to-wear.
The past four winners of the main prize are Marine Serre, Grace Wales Bonner, Marques’Almeida and Thomas Tait, and the award has also boosted the careers of its runner-up special-prize winners: Kozaburo Akasaka, Vejas, Jacquemus, Hood by Air and Miuniku.
LVMH also rewards three graduates from fashion schools. They will each receive 10,000 euros and will join one of the group’s houses for one year.
Last year’s edition drew 1,250 applications from 90 countries, with 21 semi-finalists invited to show their work during Paris Fashion Week

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Christophe Girard to Exit LVMH

POLITICAL MANEUVERS: Christophe Girard, who has straddled politics and luxury goods for years, is to exit LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton over the summer, according to market sources. He joined LVMH from Yves Saint Laurent in 1999 and held the title director of strategy in its fashion and leather goods division. Girard could not be reached for comment.

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Marques’ Almeida’s Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida Win LVMH Prize

PARIS — Marques’ Almeida’s Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida won the second annual LVMH Prize, an international contest for young designers selected by some of the industry’s biggest creative figures.
The Portuguese designers receive a grant of 300,000 euros, or $ 333,300 at current exchange rates, plus a year of coaching from executives at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury group and sponsor of the prize.
Actress Natalie Portman, the face of Miss Dior perfume, handed the statuette to Marques and Almeida during a ceremony at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the new Frank Gehry-designed art museum on the leafy fringes of Paris currently showcasing a mother lode of Modern Art masterpieces.
Marques and Almeida beat out seven other finalists. They were: Arthur Arbesser, an Austrian women’s wear designer based in Milan; Craig Green, a British men’s wear specialist based in London; Faustine Steinmetz, a French women’s wear designer based in London; Simon Porte Jacquemus, a Frenchman based in Paris, where he presents his Jacquemus women’s collection; Virgil Abloh, an American designer based in Milan, where he does men’s and women’s fashions under the Off-White label; and Demna Gvasalia, a German designer who presents his Vetements women’s line in Paris.
A special jury prize went to Jacquemus. It comes

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This Just In: Meet the LVMH Prize Finalists

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It’s never been easy to be a young fashion designer, but it’s sure not getting any easier. Which is why institutions like the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers—who offer both monetary grants and mentorship—are so entirely invaluable: Their time and attention can bring a promising young label on the cusp to full flourish. (Or at least help soothe the awkward, often prohibitively expensive, and occasionally harrowing growth process.) But it’s not all brotherly love: The competition has never been fiercer. Fresh off of the heels of their 26-designer-heavy event during Paris Fashion Week (whittled down from more than 1,000 applicants), LVMH—and a jury made up of the nine creative directors of their fashion houses Jonathan Anderson, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci, Humberto Leon, and Carol Lim—have just announced the eight young fashion companies on the shortlist.

Here’s what you need to know about the designers (listed alphabetically, below) who made the cut: Consider it your cheat sheet to sussing out the next big thing.

 

Arthur Arbesser

 



Arthur Arbesser LVMH Prize

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Photo: Courtesy of Arthur Arbesser

An Austrian Central Saint Martins graduate and Armani alum, Arbesser’s womenswear line is based in Milan, and his designs—uniform-inspired tailoring, graphic, geometric knitwear, quirky frocks, diaphanous separates, and other similarly uncomplicated but entirely clever (and ultimately entirely fetching) clothes—have quickly made him the poster child for the city’s new, buzzy young industry energy.

 

Coperni Femme

 



Coperni Femme LVMH Prize

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Photo: Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet

Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer founded their boutique ready-to-wear line—pragmatic, streamlined, minimalist-minded, with an obsession for artfully executed detail, futuristic construction, and a celestial mascot in Copernicus (yes, he of the heliocentric philosophies)—in Paris in 2013; they scooped up ANDAM’s First Collections Prize soon after.

 

Craig Green

 



Craig Green LVMH Prize

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Photo: Courtesy of Craig Green

A London-based menswear designer whose collections play with texture, volume, negative space, and silhouette. His spring 2015 collection drew comparisons to both Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo (and reportedly brought its audience to tears), while his fall 2015 showing drew on the idea of the uniform, and of masculinity, power, and vulnerability.

 

Faustine Steinmetz

 



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Photo: Courtesy of Faustine Steinmetz

The London-based Steinmetz may have cut her teeth studying pattern-cutting at Paris’s prestigious Atelier Chardon Savard and was among one of the last classes to study under legendary professor Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins, but her namesake line—revamped iconic wardrobe classics like Levi’s 501s and tracksuit jackets, pullover sweatshirts, and denim skirts—is mind-bending in its construction: Recent collections name-checked the ancient craft of shibori, or used brushed and pulled wool in place of denim. (All textiles are handwoven on a traditional hand loom.) This is the type of imagination that makes a brand iconic.

 

Jacquemus

 



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Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Simon Porte Jacquemus may be in his mid-twenties, but he shot to the forefront of the fashion industry’s collective consciousness for his ability to purvey a certain childlike joy and nostalgia with his designs: His spring collection played with bathing suit coverups and schoolgirl motifs; his fall showing with Sebastian Bieniek–inspired face paint and giant, hand-shaped cutouts.

 

Marques ‘ Almeida

 



Marques Almeida LVMH Prize

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Photo: Marcus Tondo/Indigitalimages.com

Chances are that London-based Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are responsible for the fraying hems of the denim-obsessive nearest you. (Their Topshop collection sold out—fast.) But don’t let the undone nature of their trademark trim fool you: There’s far more than just good jeans afoot. The duo’s band of loyal followers is expanding almost as quickly as their oeuvre—recent collections have applied the pair’s eye for an insouciant attitude to any number of textiles.

 

Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh

 



Off-White LVMH Prize

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Photo: Courtesy of Off-White

The only American designer in the group, Abloh’s résumé conveys a certain entrepreneurial energy stereotypical to these shores: founding RSVP Gallery in Chicago, designing a line of streetwear (the hotly consumed and oft-blogged Pyrex Vision, which created something of a street style frenzy), and working as creative director at Kanye Wests DONDA, among other visual art-based inclinations. Off-White encompasses both Abloh’s men’s and women’s range: The silhouette is long, layered, and achingly cool regardless of gender, and his graphic sensibility—those Charlie Hebdo–inspired “War Is Not Over!” tees and freshly-painted-looking toppers from his fall 2015 women’s collection may not be “streetwear” as such, but that’s where they’ll find the most traction—is still his strong suit.

 

Vetements

 



Vetements LVMH Prize

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Photo: Courtesy of Vetements

Head designer Demna Gvasalia may be able to count previous experience at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Louis Vuitton, and Maison Martin Margiela on his résumé, but it’s where he and his merry band of Paris-based designers are going—fall included everything from diced-and-spliced denim and swollen, distended motorcycle jackets to Paris, Texas–inspired pink angora sweaterdresses and football scarves—that has the fashion industry rapt with attention.

The post This Just In: Meet the LVMH Prize Finalists appeared first on Vogue.

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