It’s never been easy to be a young fashion designer, but it’s sure not getting any easier. Which is why institutions like the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers—who offer both monetary grants and mentorship—are so entirely invaluable: Their time and attention can bring a promising young label on the cusp to full flourish. (Or at least help soothe the awkward, often prohibitively expensive, and occasionally harrowing growth process.) But it’s not all brotherly love: The competition has never been fiercer. Fresh off of the heels of their 26-designer-heavy event during Paris Fashion Week (whittled down from more than 1,000 applicants), LVMH—and a jury made up of the nine creative directors of their fashion houses Jonathan Anderson, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci, Humberto Leon, and Carol Lim—have just announced the eight young fashion companies on the shortlist.
Here’s what you need to know about the designers (listed alphabetically, below) who made the cut: Consider it your cheat sheet to sussing out the next big thing.
An Austrian Central Saint Martins graduate and Armani alum, Arbesser’s womenswear line is based in Milan, and his designs—uniform-inspired tailoring, graphic, geometric knitwear, quirky frocks, diaphanous separates, and other similarly uncomplicated but entirely clever (and ultimately entirely fetching) clothes—have quickly made him the poster child for the city’s new, buzzy young industry energy.
Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer founded their boutique ready-to-wear line—pragmatic, streamlined, minimalist-minded, with an obsession for artfully executed detail, futuristic construction, and a celestial mascot in Copernicus (yes, he of the heliocentric philosophies)—in Paris in 2013; they scooped up ANDAM’s First Collections Prize soon after.
A London-based menswear designer whose collections play with texture, volume, negative space, and silhouette. His spring 2015 collection drew comparisons to both Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo (and reportedly brought its audience to tears), while his fall 2015 showing drew on the idea of the uniform, and of masculinity, power, and vulnerability.
The London-based Steinmetz may have cut her teeth studying pattern-cutting at Paris’s prestigious Atelier Chardon Savard and was among one of the last classes to study under legendary professor Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins, but her namesake line—revamped iconic wardrobe classics like Levi’s 501s and tracksuit jackets, pullover sweatshirts, and denim skirts—is mind-bending in its construction: Recent collections name-checked the ancient craft of shibori, or used brushed and pulled wool in place of denim. (All textiles are handwoven on a traditional hand loom.) This is the type of imagination that makes a brand iconic.
Simon Porte Jacquemus may be in his mid-twenties, but he shot to the forefront of the fashion industry’s collective consciousness for his ability to purvey a certain childlike joy and nostalgia with his designs: His spring collection played with bathing suit coverups and schoolgirl motifs; his fall showing with Sebastian Bieniek–inspired face paint and giant, hand-shaped cutouts.
Chances are that London-based Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are responsible for the fraying hems of the denim-obsessive nearest you. (Their Topshop collection sold out—fast.) But don’t let the undone nature of their trademark trim fool you: There’s far more than just good jeans afoot. The duo’s band of loyal followers is expanding almost as quickly as their oeuvre—recent collections have applied the pair’s eye for an insouciant attitude to any number of textiles.
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh
The only American designer in the group, Abloh’s résumé conveys a certain entrepreneurial energy stereotypical to these shores: founding RSVP Gallery in Chicago, designing a line of streetwear (the hotly consumed and oft-blogged Pyrex Vision, which created something of a street style frenzy), and working as creative director at Kanye West’s DONDA, among other visual art-based inclinations. Off-White encompasses both Abloh’s men’s and women’s range: The silhouette is long, layered, and achingly cool regardless of gender, and his graphic sensibility—those Charlie Hebdo–inspired “War Is Not Over!” tees and freshly-painted-looking toppers from his fall 2015 women’s collection may not be “streetwear” as such, but that’s where they’ll find the most traction—is still his strong suit.
Head designer Demna Gvasalia may be able to count previous experience at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Louis Vuitton, and Maison Martin Margiela on his résumé, but it’s where he and his merry band of Paris-based designers are going—fall included everything from diced-and-spliced denim and swollen, distended motorcycle jackets to Paris, Texas–inspired pink angora sweaterdresses and football scarves—that has the fashion industry rapt with attention.
The post This Just In: Meet the LVMH Prize Finalists appeared first on Vogue.
BEAUTY TIPS & UPDATES BY GABBY LOVE! –Get free shipping everyday on orders $ 35+ at Beauty.com plus earn 5% back!
Gabby Loves Avon #2-