Givenchy Touts New Approach to Tailoring at Pitti

PARIS — Givenchy, the brand that spearheaded the luxury streetwear revolution with its Rottweiler print T-shirts and high-top sneakers, believes the next big wave in men’s wear is tailoring.
When creative director Clare Waight Keller stages her first stand-alone men’s runway display on Wednesday evening as the special guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence, expect a hefty dose of the couture sensibility she’s been honing since arriving at the house in 2017, succeeding Riccardo Tisci.
Philippe Fortunato, chief executive officer of Givenchy since 2014, said while there’s still healthy demand for the brand’s logo merchandise, timeless looks are making a comeback.
“Fashion will be evolving from that very conspicuous, obvious logo statement into something which is much more refined, sophisticated, less branded, with a strong emphasis on classicism,” he told WWD in an interview at the French fashion house’s historic headquarters on Avenue George V here.

Givenchy Mens Preview Spring 2020 
Crista Leonard/WWD

“These are fashion pendulums that are swinging. We’re very happy to embrace that, and we want to work toward a stronger coordination from that statement between men’s and women’s collections,” he added. “You will see a bit less of that overall big branding in the collections.”
The Pitti show comes on

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Karl Lagerfeld Brand to Honor Founding Designer at Pitti Uomo

KARL FOREVER: The Karl Lagerfeld brand will attend the next session of Pitti Uomo with a presentation honoring its late founding designer. That will include a performance by the London-based street artist Endless, and displays of the brand’s spring 2020 collections of men’s wear, women’s wear, footwear, eyewear, denim and beachwear.
“Our presence at Pitti Uomo will be a special moment to kick off a series of global events that celebrate Karl’s legacy and reflect upon his pioneering, cutting-edge and iconic contributions to design,” said Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld. “Pitti Uomo will also be an exciting platform to showcase our new collections and share the inspiring, immersive World of Karl experience.”
Central to the brand’s display at the international men’s wear trade show in Florence, Italy, will be a 5-by-9-meter installation where Endless paints a portrait of Lagerfeld throughout the fair, running June 11 to 14.
The artist’s portrait of the designer will also be printed on 50 limited-edition T-shirts, which will be available at Pitti Uomo.
Also the couturier at Chanel and the ready-to-wear and fur designer at Fendi, Lagerfeld passed away in February at age 85.

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Craig Green Poised to Plant a ‘Strange Garden’ Behind the Pitti Palace

LONDON — Craig Green is preparing to cast a midsummer night’s spell over the Boboli Gardens for his first Pitti Uomo show as guest men’s wear designer — and it will likely have a dark edge. The designer, usually the hottest ticket on the London men’s schedule, may be all smiles and self-deprecation, but his imagination often spills into strange and shadowy corners.
Green, who is known for his utilitarian and often otherworldly designs that draw on everything from children’s toys to aliens and martial arts, said he chose the gardens, a broad, gentle slope of green behind the Pitti Palace, for a very specific reason. He loves that the Boboli Gardens aren’t manicured “but rather natural and overgrown, like a protective garden, and not too preened or polished, which I think is the beauty in it.”
He also thought it would be interesting to show somewhere “that was so classically Florence, and then try and twist how we present in the space. Hopefully it’s like nothing that has been seen there before.”
The plan for Thursday’s show is to create an installation that reflects “kind of a strange garden. The feeling will be transportive, because we’re showing at night. We’re trying to add

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Belstaff Teams with McLaren Automotive on Capsule to Debut at Pitti

LONDON — The racetrack is fast becoming the new runway as fashion and luxury brands strike deals with motorsport companies for special collections.
Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger have both aligned their brands with Formula One, and now Belstaff is set to unveil a limited-edition capsule collection with McLaren Automotive, WWD has learned.
The collection includes 10 men’s pieces and three women’s outerwear pieces. For men, there is all-season trilayer outerwear and a gilet, lightweight stretch nylon outerwear, a performance leather jacket, suiting and shirting for the weekend.
Women’s includes three outerwear styles in all-season trilayer, lightweight stretch nylon and performance leather. The pieces have ergonomic seam lines and innovative stretch fabrics for a full range of movement, Belstaff said.
It will be previewed at Pitti Uomo ahead of the consumer launch in November. Belstaff x McLaren will be available at Belstaff stores globally, online, at select retail partners and McLaren Automotive Dealerships.
Key design details include mesh ventilation systems, pivot armholes, padded shoulders, concealed micro pockets, minimal necklines to aid peripheral vision and extended rear hems for driving. The collection has been made from lightweight, breathable and water resistant fabrics, and each garment has a rubberized printed serial identification number, aligned with McLaren cars’ naming

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Sustainability and Natural Fibers to Take Center Stage at Pitti Filati

MILAN — Sustainability is here to stay.
What was once considered a trend or a marketing tool to appeal to customers has proved to be a crucial path to follow for the fashion industry, starting from the top of its production chain — the yarn makers.
Textile houses increasingly spotlighted eco-friendly features in the collections they presented over the recent editions of Pitti Filati, and the upcoming one is set to make no exception.
Running Jan. 24-26, the Florence-based textile trade show will count 112 exhibitors, 16 of which come from abroad, over a 215,278-square-foot surface at the Fortezza da Basso venue.
Many spinners talked about heightened attention to the environment and a renovated sensibility toward the planet, including the return of the use of natural fibers, as key features in conceiving their spring 2019 textile collections. In addition, multiseasonality emerged as a necessary asset to adapt to ongoing climatic changes and to customers’ demands.
“We will present 10 new yarns, created respecting sustainable principles,” said Filpucci’s president Federico Gualtieri. Among these, the company will introduce the Cera yarn, 100 percent made of Cupro, a natural, biodegradable fiber obtained from cotton scraps and converted into a quality derivative through technological processes. The color palette will reflect the

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Michelangelo’s David Takes Center Stage During Pitti

Michelangelo’s David performed double duty Tuesday night in Florence when the iconic marble sculpture was the backdrop for an innovative — and striking — video installation.
In an event on the first night of the Pitti Uomo show, Italian fabric producer Lanificio Luigi Ricceri presented “Fabric as Art,” a presentation by multidisciplinary artist Felice Limosani.
The installation featured 10 of the mill’s fabrics that were projected on the wall behind — and then directly onto — the 17-foot-tall statue.
Following the seven-minute installation, guests were treated to cocktails and small bites at the Galleria dell’Accademia.

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Scorpions – MTV Unplugged – Scorpions, Cäthe, Johannes Strate, Morten Harket, A. Wickström, E. Bazilian, F. Thomander, H. Rarebell, James F. Sundah, James Kottak, Klaus Meine, Matthias Jabs, Pitti Hecht, Rudolf Schenker, Titiek Puspa, Dimitra Kokkori (spoken wordings), Jim Vallence, Sonja Kittelsen & U.J. Roth

Scorpions, Cäthe, Johannes Strate, Morten Harket, A. Wickström, E. Bazilian, F. Thomander, H. Rarebell, James F. Sundah, James Kottak, Klaus Meine, Matthias Jabs, Pitti Hecht, Rudolf Schenker, Titiek Puspa, Dimitra Kokkori (spoken wordings), Jim Vallence, Sonja Kittelsen & U.J. Roth - Scorpions - MTV Unplugged  artwork

Scorpions – MTV Unplugged

Scorpions, Cäthe, Johannes Strate, Morten Harket, A. Wickström, E. Bazilian, F. Thomander, H. Rarebell, James F. Sundah, James Kottak, Klaus Meine, Matthias Jabs, Pitti Hecht, Rudolf Schenker, Titiek Puspa, Dimitra Kokkori (spoken wordings), Jim Vallence, Sonja Kittelsen & U.J. Roth

Genre: Concert Films

Price: $ 26.99

Rental Price: $ 3.99

Release Date: November 29, 2013

2h long MTV Unplugged concert performed under the open sky in Athens.

© © 2013 Sony Music Entertainment Germany GmbH

iTunes Store: Top Movies in Concert Films

Pitti Uomo Day 3: Moschino by Jeremy Scott, Katy Perry and Africa in the Mecca of Menswear

As I worked and walked my way through the third day of Pitti Uomo in Florence, I realized fashion leaves me with more questions than answers. What makes us feel good, and is that directly related to how we look in an item of clothing? Is our character driven from the inside or can it be changed depending on our mood but also our outfit? Can a fabric like Véritable Wax Hollandais from Ivory Coast, one that has been imitated and exploited in the Western world, finally take its rightful place as a fashion classic, alongside tweeds and tartans? All are debates that I’d love to continue with friends, readers and colleagues.

The morning of day 3 started in passionate style, with Constellation Africa, a group presentation by four talented designers from the great continent. They are MaXhosa by Laduma, designed by Laduma Ngxokolo from South Africa; Projecto Mental, designed by Tekasala Ma’at Nzinga & Shunnoz Fiel from Angola; Orange Culture designed by Adebayo Oke-Lawal from Nigeria; and Dent de Man designed by Alexis Temomanin from Ivory Coast/UK. The word stunning doesn’t even begin to describe this fashion show, which I’d been looking forward to all week.

So, I wasn’t disappointed, far from it, but I actually walked away feeling even better than I thought I would. The groundbreaking show in Florence was promoted by a project called the Ethical Fashion Initiative headed and founded by Simone Cipriani, an initiative that is part of the UN International Trade Center. Supporting and encouraging a sustainable, fairly traded African fashion industry should be a priority in a world that cherishes creativity, like the fashion world. Yet, while major fashion and design houses have “borrowed” African fabrics and styles for ages, culminating in last season’s Afrocentric madness, the creative forces from the continent have not made it to a breakthrough. Until now. With a major event at what the designers of Projecto Mental call “the Mecca of Menswear,” Florence, supported by the voices of Stella McCartney and Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani, the buzz reverberating was definitely positive.

As the first outfit from Ivory Coast’s Dent de Man came out, I felt goosebumps, wowed by its beauty and style. Wax fabrics have always been a part of my life, as long as I can remember I wore them wrapped around my waist in the summer, at the beach, or had jackets made on a 125th Street in Harlem by the Senegalese tailors there. But to finally see them take their rightful place upfront and center stage, in perfectly tailored, wonderfully wearable menswear, was breathtaking. Here’s to hoping they’ll continue to be made into men’s suits and shirts, for generations to come. I also enjoyed the blanket looks at MaXhosa by Laduma, a tribute to Xhosa tribal blankets with a modern spin, and the “Wes Anderson meets a Vietnamese intellectual in a village of Nigeria” looks from Orange Culture. Yup, I came up with that quote all by myself.

The afternoon belonged to the cocktail party co-hosted by Saks First Avenue and the Italian Trade Agency at the Westin Excelsion. On the hotel’s rooftop Sesto Lounge, they served gnocchi with butter and sage, mini sliders and ribollita, a complete blend of Italian and US cuisine. The atmosphere was a great mix too, of fashion bloggers, industry executives and designers and the goodie bag awaiting guests as they exited reminded me of just how classy Saks is and how much I miss the store when I’m not in NYC. Yes, there is Saks location in Dubai, but nothing can equal a shop that takes up an entire city block!

The evening was Moschino. With Jeremy Scott as the fashion house’s new creative talent, I knew the show would be irreverent, fun, exciting and colorful, everything Franco Moschino himself was known for. Again, it turned out to be a goosebumps moment for me, because inside the Palazzo Corsini, just steps away from the Arno, I felt Moschino’s soul in the rooms (yes, models marched through several rooms of this XVII Century palace, adding to the show’s magic) among us, finally, after years of wannabe fashions with a lame sense of humor. Scott has the heart and soul of the brand down to a proverbial “t”, and his irrevent kings, half-naked matadors and rockstar Marie Antoinettes in this first collection for the brand prove it. Oh, and I almost forgot, he had Katy Perry there to support him too!

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The Pitti Uomo Diaries: Florence is Where the Heart Is


Giancarlo Giannini with Solis String Quarter and Peppe Servillo, reading from Salvatore Ferragamo’s memoirs at Palazzo Spini Feroni in Florence

The past few days for me have been heavy. I’ve searched my soul for personal thoughts about the attacks in France and have still to figure out how I feel. I know I’m sad, I find the events tragic and discouraging, but beyond that, I don’t know.

Then, just as I was trying to make sense of it all through social media, and tweeted “#JeSuisAhmed,” I was called a “useful idiot” on Twitter, by a 60-something Pakistani-Canadian author with a pot belly. I am used to insults from young trolls with faceless avatars by now, but this was a published writer, a man who has a hefty following of equal haters, many of whom quickly retweeted his comment. For all I’ve written, for every step I’ve taken in trying to stay away from typical media negativity and inspire those who read my thoughts to watch films and read books as means to understand the Arab world better (in my opinion the easiest and only solution for the sake of humanity) I felt defeated.

And just then, at that crucial moment, that’s when a couple I call my angels of inspiration came to the rescue. Lisa Chiari and Roberto Ruta are a Florence-based duo in life and work who never cease to amaze me. They are the International Press and Italian Press Relations, respectively, for Pitti Imagine, which this week has infused Florence with the style of Pitti Uomo. Beautiful fashion, wandering around my home city, the food and hospitality of this place, and seeing Lisa and Roberto turns out to be exactly what my weary soul needs now. Right now.

2015-01-13-IMG_06771.jpg My journey started with a train. It’s been years since I’ve taken one in Italy, I’ve grown accustomed to air travel. But flights were completely booked up on the day I wanted to set off and the train turned out to be an economical and very satisfying experience. Trains in Italy aren’t what they used to be when I was a child, that’s for sure. These days they are called things like “Red Arrow” and “Silver Arrow”, are fast, on time and full of well behaved adults — except for the one Italian man with the loud ringtone and even louder timber who thankfully sat at the other end of my car.

Once in Florence, I headed off to my favorite restaurant. It’s probably the kind of place they had in mind when they wrote the theme song for Cheers “… Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came.” The immediate hospitality of the folks at La Casalinga is the reason the restaurant has been a Florentine institution for the most informed clientele since I was a child. But people keep coming back for La Casalinga’s decently priced, home-cooked style food and great atmosphere. Whenever I set foot in this magical reign of great nourishment, ancient patronage and exquisitely familiar ambiance I feel like I’ve returned to my city, my place and most importantly, my identity. As one stylish woman in her seventies said to her fur clad equally charming friend seated at the next table, by herself, “here one is never alone.” I toasted silently to the luxury of eating a meal by myself, enjoying every explosion of taste and my surroundings, uninterrupted.


My grandfather Hans Rothe wrote in his book Shakespeare Provocateur that Italians and foreigners view Italy differently. He made the example of how a Florentine interacts with the constant flow of artistic masterpieces that he or she passes every day on the streets of the city, at once owning it all and nonchalant. But a Swede, for example, sees the beauty, and savors the artistic intention of the various craftsmen that “decorated” it. I consider myself lucky that I view Florence with both sets of eyes. I walk its streets knowing instinctually where I’m going, what I’ll be passing soon, but my NYC upbringing and long time spent away make for a discovery here at every corner. I stop, stare, get lost in the beauty of this city, which in my very biased and humble opinion, possesses no ugly perspective, or unattractive views.

The Pitti Uomo related events kicked off with an evening performance at the Salvatore Ferragamo headquarters, inside Palazzo Spini Feroni, of “L’eleganza di una vita: Storia di un gentiluomo d’altri tempi.” It was a reading by Italian acting legend Giancarlo Giannini, accompanied by Neapolitan songs sung by Peppe Servillo and the Solis String Quartet, of Ferragamo’s memoirs Shoemaker of Dreams: the Autobiography of Salvatore Ferragamo.

The excerpts read described the journey of this master shoe designer, from his humble beginnings in Bonito, near Naples — as the eleventh of fourteen children — to the first two pairs of shoes he made (for his sister’s First Communion) his setting off for America, where he stated “I felt at home the moment I arrived.” Finally, to his settling in Florence for his work and life, with his wife Wanda. The most touching part of the evening was Giannini reading Ferragamo’s retelling of his first meeting with his future wife, how he fell in love with her, while Wanda Ferragamo herself sat in the front row, listening. I imagined the thrill, and sorrow, of hearing her praises written by her deceased husband, immortalized forever in his book. Read in the husky voice of Giannini, who was nursing a cold thus adding to his charm, was thrilling and touching.

2015-01-13-cioccolatiniferragamo_thumb1.jpg Afterward, cocktails and chocolates in the form of Ferragamo’s most recognized silhouette, the “Rainbow” platform created for Judy Garland in 1938, welcomed the guests, while the third generation of Ferragamos, embodied by the handsome James, played host of the evening in their boutique.

The evening finished beautifully at Il Santo Bevitore, a gourmet restaurant that combines the best traditions of Italian food style. I stand corrected, Florentine food style. Growing up in this alimentary paradise lays the foundation for great food habits that last a lifetime. The idea that the biggest meal of the day should happen at lunchtime and the evening should instead comprise of some charcuterie, cheeses and maybe something small and warm like a soup, has been my saving discipline. Forget food pyramids and fad diets, the Florentines have had it right for centuries and this restaurant, run by chef Pierluigi Campi, does it perfectly. With some truffle-infused pecorino, a bowl of hot pumpkin soup that simply nourished my soul, I rediscovered that home will always be… where Florence is.

I look forward to the upcoming days of style with highlights including “Cloakroom”, a performance by Tilda Swinton and Olivier Saillard, and Pitti Uomo’s guest designer Marni.

Top image courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo SpA, used with permission.
Style – The Huffington Post
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Russia Out at Pitti Uomo

The country will no longer be the guest national at the January edition of the trade show in Florence.

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WWD Fashion Headlines Ltd

Russia Out at Pitti Uomo

The country will no longer be the guest national at the January edition of the trade show in Florence.

Continue reading…

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

WWD Fashion Scoops
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