Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2019

Paintings by Alice Neel served as a starting point for the prints of Christian Wijnants’ pre-fall collection, which he presented in the showroom of the Galerie d’Architecture.
He noticed the portrait painter’s use of stripes, which he borrowed and applied to a white T-shirt — they ran vertically, hand-painted rather than machine-drawn, as shown by how they wavered slightly.
Known for celebrating diversity, Neel was active between the Sixties and the Eighties, corresponding to Wijnant’s childhood. Perhaps his attraction to her work reflected a nostalgic bent, he observed. A denim dress had a slight Seventies flavor with interesting seams crisscrossing the body, diagonal at the chest, while a pocket at the waist was slightly pushed forward. Going for a bit more elegance, he opted for higher waistlines, more cotton — for shape — and lots of jackets, in oversize cuts, boyfriend style. The resulting lineup felt relevant and self-assured, bringing new elements to the label’s knit and patterned universe.
With pre-fall collections hitting stores in May, he offered pieces with a summer feeling — the market has increasingly become see-now-buy-now, he noted.
Prints included a stylized flower he calls moon flowers, noting there was something poetic about not being able to identify the shape,

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Au Jour Le Jour Pre-Fall 2019

Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez delivered an urban collection where streetwear references met sartorial elements. Tailored blazers in classic suiting patterns were worn with cotton shirts punctuated with embroideries, while faux fur coats and jackets, worked in bold neon tones, jeans and starred tops were injected with a young and fun attitude.

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Ermanno Scervino Pre-Fall 2019

A versatile attitude sits at the core of this collection, where different influences converged into a rich lineup, rooted in the brand’s feminine interpretation of the classic sartorial elegance. While David Bowie-inspired suits showed fitted, narrow silhouettes, lace plissé miniskirts with asymmetric details were matched with hyper soft leather shirts. Echoing Jean-Michel Basquiat graffiti art, multicolored graphics appeared as intarsias on both the cozy sweaters worked in pop tones and the tailored coats showing traditional suiting patterns. A military touch was introduced via an arty take on the camouflage print, which peppered refined minidresses and mannish cargo pants.

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Miu Miu Pre-Fall 2019

Well into its third month of openings that just meandered through the men’s fall 2019 season and into this week’s premier event — couture — pre-fall now strikes as mostly ho-hum and beside the point.
So it’s nice to be reminded that even at the tail end of a way too long, largely forgettable stretch, good clothes will always resonate. Miuccia Prada is just the person to send that message, and did so with her delightful Miu Miu collection.
Imagine the young Diana Spencer gone a little bit punk. No real subversion, mind you, just a good girl’s aspirational take on disaffected attitude. Read: ruffled shirts and collars mixed with loose-knit, undone sweaters and baggy pants, tapered towards the ankle. Add in pretend heraldic crests, classic Miu Miu sparkle in sequins and gold leather, and some Tyrolean action — pretty flowers, sturdy fabrics, external corsetry — and you’ve got the makings of a charming collection interesting enough to put an upbeat punctuation mark on pre-fall.
Now enough already. Real fall is but a fortnight away.

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Y’s Pre-Fall 2019

For the design studio at Y’s — both of the brand’s lines, “Black” and “Pink,” are created by Yohji Yamamoto’s team — pre-collections are seen as laboratories where the designers can try out style innovations before they hit the main line. Some of them are bold (for pre-fall 2019, one of the main themes is Indian embroidery) while others are more subtle, like the introduction of a new hue (a soft royal blue) to the restrained color palette.
Ornate black embroideries of hands and eyes, representing two of the human senses, decorate both cotton shirts and wool separates of the Black line, snaking up a coat back or sitting above a jacket pocket. They were crafted by the Shanagar factory, based in Mumbai, India, known for its collaborations with Alaïa, Chloé, Lanvin and Yamamoto himself, and add a mystical touch to the pared-back Y’s silhouette.
Denim pieces are printed patchwork-style to imitate “boro,” a technique used at the end of the 19th century in Japan: instead of buying costly new clothes, pieces of cloth were sewn together thanks to the “sachiko” method, pinning the bits of fabric together. The grey patchwork print lends an ancestral look to a knee-length coat with red

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Victoria Beckham Pre-Fall 2019

Victoria Beckham has an acute knowledge of what she and, in turn, her customers want to wear.
She has developed a power-dressing formula of her own that revolves around elegant tailoring, cozy knits and feminine yet easy-to-throw-on midi dresses — and she keeps returning to it, as it clearly seems to appeal to her growing customer base of women who subscribe to her brand of modern femininity and are on the lookout for glamorous yet no-fuss clothing.
For pre-fall, she kept her focus sharp and stayed true to brand signatures from elegant skinny trousers, to asymmetric knit dresses and flowing midi’s.
Some highlights included a pair of khaki slim trousers with the brand’s signature slits placed on the sides; a tweed suit that is already on high demand after Beckham wore it to attend her husband’s Kent & Curwen presentation during the London men’s shows; tailored corduroy trousers and colorblock tops. There were also dainty slip tops or camisole dresses galore — Beckham said customers loved the lingerie inspiration the brand debuted on the runway last season, so she listened and is giving them more.
Always a careful listener to her client’s needs, Beckham also wanted to cater to women’s soft spot for animal prints

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Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2019

“As a designer, my goal is to bring fashion to the street, not the street into fashion,” said Alberta Ferretti, distancing herself from the industry’s current obsession for streetwear. “I designed a collection which is multifaceted as the women of today, who look for clothes exalting their beauty and at the same fitting the needs of their dynamic lifestyle.”
In keeping with her intentions, Ferretti presented a lineup that mixed the right dose of daywear with her signature romantic evening styles. More quotidian options included, for example, a beautiful trenchcoat with cape-like details worn with a quilted jacket and a cozy sweater tucked into slightly high-waisted carrot pants punctuated by zippers. Impeccable blazers were worn with flared trousers and crochet tops and a cashmere cape trimmed with leather, exuding a chic equestrian feel, was paired with a cable-knit mini dress.
Veering toward more evening situations, a short silk cocktail dress was enriched with a cascade of ruffles in a delicate combination of pink and gray tones, geometric metallic embellishments gave a sparkling feel to mini frocks, while a sensual black satin slipdress was decorated with metallic rings for an eye-catching, slightly Nineties effect.

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Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2019

Louis Vuitton has tapped an all-star cast for its pre-fall look book, cementing a growing trend for pre-collections — traditionally viewed as commercial filler between runway shows — to act as major communications platforms for luxury brands.
Having staged a celebrity-laden cruise show in the South of France in May, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière showcased his pre-fall looks on 17 personalities covering a broad generational swathe, with stars recruited from highbrow Oscar-winning movies and hit TV shows.
“These women embrace the various personalities that embody fashion at Louis Vuitton. Be they stars or new faces, all of them share the same willpower and confidence in their choices, and at the same time, reflect the eclecticism of the female identity,” he said in a statement.
Among his most surprising choices is transgender actress Indya Moore, one of the breakout stars of Ryan Murphy’s acclaimed series “Pose,” which was nominated for best television series in the drama category at the recent Golden Globes.
Gender ambiguity has played a growing role in Ghesquière’s aesthetic lately — the designer’s spring 2019 runway featured transgender and androgynous models Krow and Jessica “Jay” Espinosa, among others.
Moore joins friends of the brand such as Jennifer Connelly, Michelle Williams, Léa Seydoux, Alicia

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Maggie Marilyn Pre-Fall 2019

“I guess two, two and a half years in it’s like, ‘What’s next?’ We manufacture in New Zealand, have a transparent supply chain, always are looking at fabric innovations…but as a brand, how do we progress and grow that still feels sustainable? Because it feels a little bit weird to say, ‘Ah, we’re sustainable,’ but we’re growing and putting more product into the world,” Maggie Marilyn contemplated. But for 2019, the sustainability maven is expanding her efforts even further.
For her latest collection, made up of high summer and pre-fall counterparts, Marilyn’s process comes not from one big overarching concept, but from sustainability, as well. “Looking at each individual garment and thinking, ‘How can we improve this in every way for the customer and for the people that make it?’” she mused. Even her fresh color palette was derived from her mom’s garden, where growing up she was taught how to grow beautiful things without the use of harmful pesticides and insecticides and later, subconsciously lead to her current state as a designer. The lineup held a more simplified ease than prior seasons — knotting details in place of overtly feminine ruffles and colorblocking in place of stripes. Dresses and skirts

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No. 21 Pre-Fall 2019

Mannish references and a winter maritime inspiration coexisted with Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s signature sensual femininity in the No. 21 pre-fall collection. The first theme resulted in cozy outerwear in striped patterns with a Nordic naval feel, as well as in knits decorated with anchor-shaped intarsia. Tiny anchors also appeared on the buttons punctuating a minidress with fluid long sleeves, as well as on a pair of glossy pants matched with a striped T-shirt. Coated inserts embellished the sleek peacoats, while shearling was used inside-out for cozy outerwear. Moving toward the more feminine, Dell’Acqua introduced leopard prints and silicon fringes on coats, frocks and pencil skirts, while a lingerie-inspired flair informed see-through tulle dresses and silk camisoles enriched with lace details.

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Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2019

An energetic vibe ran through the Emilio Pucci collection. Easy-chic, uncomplicated silhouettes were combined with the house’s signature bold prints, as well as joyful colors and tactile finishings.
Plissé dresses and skirts, showing the new Pucci logo, featured intriguing dégradé effects amplified by the irregular stripes of fitted knit tops and the iridescent accents of silk blouses. The multicolor graphic prints were embroidered with metallic sequins on the sparkling asymmetric evening frocks, while viscose pin-striped tailored suits were infused with an elegant attitude.
A-lined colorful vinyl skirts were paired with lightweight silk blouses in fluid silhouettes and plissé skirts in solid tones were embellished with asymmetric foulard inserts splashed with graphic patterns, adding a joyful feel to the clean designs.

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Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2019

While maintaining his aesthetic bold and flamboyant, Philipp Plein introduced more quotidian options for pre-fall.
A macro houndstooth pattern reflected the sartorial inspiration of power coats, wrap skirts and sheath dresses all embellished with leather details, while denim parkas matched with coordinated pants were richly lined with fluffy fur.
Jeans were also embellished with a cascade of crystals and studs, revealing the collection’s punkish inspiration, also echoing in the leather garments punctuated by metallic embellishments. A tribute to Eighties hard rock music bands, a pattern mixing flames and roses combined with the brand’s logo was splashed on silk separates and structured outerwear styles for the most audacious Philipp Plein’s fans.

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Tibi Pre-Fall 2019

News first: Tibi has officially launched men’s. Ssense picked up the smattering of men’s looks that appeared on Amy Smilovic’s spring runway and will be incubating the collection for at least a yearlong exclusive. “We didn’t really know we were tapping into something new in the market,” Smilovic said during a pre-fall preview. “Ssense really believes there’s a whole area missing for soft tailoring. Men’s doesn’t really have any young designer correlation. There’s nothing for a guy who’s like, ‘I want to pay a little more than contemporary and a lot less than designer and I don’t want to be street.’”
In terms of the pre-fall lineup at large, Smilovic focused on lightening things up in terms of attitude, a sense of humor. “We never do a theme, per se, but we were feeling the need to shake things up a bit, keeping on the track of updating classics, and a little bit of not taking yourself so seriously felt right,” she said. “We love suiting and a real urban palette, but we wanted to infuse it with a nature vibe.” Nothing was funny-ha-ha, but there were moments of cheekiness, for example, an oversize women’s suit cinched with a supersized, Eighties-inspired belt

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Fendi Pre-Fall 2019

In keeping with the mood of its spring 2019 women’s runway show, Fendi showcased a pre-fall collection centered on elegant, real clothes for modern and dynamic women.
Creative director Karl Lagerfeld took inspiration from 19th-century French gates for the chic graphic patterns that peppered a range of pieces, spanning from asymmetric plissé dresses to urban bombers with mink fur collars. Reflecting the utilitarian attitude of the spring collection, the runway show’s maxi pockets returned here on the outerwear pieces, including a lightweight laser cut mink fur coat showing color-blocked fur intarsia. Inspired by traditional workwear, slightly oversize shirt jackets with front pockets were matched with wide-leg coordinated cuffed pants, while sartorial influences resonated in the masterfully crafted blazers showing asymmetric lapels. Their sophisticated rigor was softened by the feminine and lively attitude of the silk dresses punctuated with lace details and printed in charming motifs echoing the patterns of vintage men’s kimonos.
The collection’s balance between soft and sharp, as well as decorative and functional, also defined the bag lineup, where Silvia Venturini Fendi delivered new versions of the brand’s iconic Baguette style, along with introducing the practical and essential Ken B shoulder design enriched with a bold metallic chain.

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019

Looking to artist Rana Begum’s geometric patterns, optical tricks and fluorescent color palette, Roksanda Ilincic worked up a collection with a sporty-couture feel and a mix of smooth surfaces and rough edges. Highlights included taffeta gowns with pouf sleeves, fabric flower appliqués with frayed edges, and black scribble embroidery.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
Other dresses — long and short — were adorned with cutout organza panels and more of those naif embroidered scribbles and looked as if they were designed by freewheeling art students. Another dress had a dramatic cape at the back and was covered with blurry, colored panels. For day, there were pleats and tucks galore on dresses made from long strips of mismatched, patterned fabric, or from lightweight cotton silk gazar in flouro pink or orange.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
A pair of cream linen silk trousers came with color-blocked pastel racing stripes down the side, while a tailored jacket was an elegant patchwork of energy drink green and powdery blue. While many of the silhouettes in this upbeat collection were breezy, bright and dreamy, but there was a strictness to this collection, too, in the form of a pea green wool boucle coat and long matching skirt, and a sturdy cream

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Max Mara Pre-Fall 2019

“Nureyev: All the World His Stage,” the documentary by Jacqui and David Morris released earlier this year, majorly influenced the Max Mara pre-fall collection.
In particular, during a walk-through at the company’s showroom, creative director Ian Griffiths said he focused on the backstage moments and rehearsals when Rudolf Nureyev and his beloved dance partner Margot Fonteyn were captured wearing their training outfits, including T-shirts with rolled-up sleeves and knots at the waist, ribbed knitted leggings and cache-coeurs.
The inspiration actually translated in the fluidity and dynamic sense of movement infused into the elegant collection. Ballet’s iconic tones echoed in the chic color palette, mainly focused on neutral shades with pink touches, as well as more vibrant red accents and graphic blacks.
Griffiths showed a soft hand in the development of the cozy coats layered over flowing pants and draped lightweight tops, as well as chiffon panel dresses injected with an ethereal femininity. This was balanced by the tailoring appeal of the cashmere and reverse satin suits, as well as by the bold silhouette of a covetable trenchcoat worn over a fine cable knit sweater, while Max Mara’s iconic 101801 camel coat was presented with an impalpable organza shell — a symbol of the

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Sportmax Pre-Fall 2019

The purist and innovative architecture of Le Corbusier inspired the graphic appeal and the striking contrasts of the Sportmax pre-fall lineup.
The brand’s signature urban aesthetic was updated this season with a versatile approach resulting in the detachable details of a range of pieces, including leather coats and trenches, which can be transformed because of the functional zippers.
Graphic striped motifs contributed to the sartorial appeal of the sartorial outerwear and to the purity of the fitted midi dresses showing college-inspired polo collars.
The world of sport remained at the core of the label with multicolor bands embellishing the intarsia leather bombers and neoprene giving a soft touch to a zippered hoodie with the ergonomic cuts highlighted by the use of Lycra. An eye-catching starred print splashed on a silk pleated dress introduced a flamboyant touch breaking the lineup’s overall rigor.

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Johanna Ortiz Pre-Fall 2019

“When you’re expecting something to receive in June or the end of May, you want to wear it immediately. You don’t want to wait two or three months to wear it,” Colombia-based Johanna Ortiz explained over the phone of the direction for her first pre-fall collection. The designer has been masterfully designing feminine frocks over the years and took to her first pre-fall collection to build out her daywear offerings — with an emphasis on easy summery shirts, skirts and dresses that could  transition into fall. A plaid suit, peach-colored eyelet blouse (one of Ortiz’ favorites) or button-downs with Western-inspired piping paired with a lightweight, leather skirt were among the highlights. While less ornate or frilly than her gowns or swimwear, they held the same feminine allure with versatile wearability.
Her expanded swimwear was great. Ditto to her gowns and flirty dresses, offered short for the first time this season. Both came in a varying jaguar prints — Ortiz’s first dip into using animal prints — best seen on a wonderful spotted dress with ribbon-ties at the shoulder and waist with matching Tabitha Simmons collaboration sandals or a ruffled one-shoulder navy maillot with the animal walking through Colombian coffee plants.

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Natasha Zinko Pre-Fall 2019

Natasha Zinko offered her take on two very hot topics for pre-fall: Sustainability and gender-neutral clothing.
She had quietly began experimenting in both arenas with her catwalk show in September, where she unveiled a small men’s wear range, but with her new pre-fall collection she was ready to make a bolder, more confident statement and come into her own.
The men’s wear line — which Zinko codesigns with her 11-year-old son Ivan — is already growing and so are the crossovers with the women’s range.
Everything from the brand’s signature tracksuits, to tailoring and oversize outerwear became interchangeable.
“I’m always taking my husband’s clothes and he takes mine. No one cares anymore, especially when it comes to streetwear,” said Zinko, pointing to a women’s bandana-printed tracksuit she ended up styling on a male model, matching men’s and women’s check shirts and roomy blazers referencing the suits worn by the Duke of Windsor and high-waisted jeans, which were photographed together in a bid to create a contemporary take on “Thelma & Louise.”
Zinko also wanted to take a stance against the much-talked-about issue of waste, which gave the brand a revitalized sense of purpose.
She turned a photograph she took of a Miami beach being cleaned in the

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Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2019

Emilia Wickstead wanted to tell a story of whimsy and empowerment with her latest pre-fall range.
Continuing the feminist narrative she started on the catwalk last spring, she turned to Fleur Cowles, the American artist and editor of Fifties magazine Flair, for inspiration: She was drawn to the way the famous editor worked hard to make a fortune in a man’s world, yet kept her “fun-loving and vivacious attitude” alive.
It was easy for Wickstead, whose vision of an empowered woman is one who keeps her femininity — and flair for romantic floral dresses — intact, to bring Cowles’ colorful spirit into her world.
She created a charming rose print — Cowles’ favorite flower — that featured on bright orange trenches and an array of midi dresses.
She also channeled the riot of pattern and color from Flair magazine’s interiors pages with a bright orange polka-dot print. It came in a pleated crepe midi dress for day and a more delicate, tulle version for the evening.
Elsewhere, Wickstead updated signature silhouettes such as her wool-crepe, structured midi dresses with pastel hues, small geometrical cutouts and Fifties-inspired necklines. She continued to add more separates to her range, too, with elegant pussy-bow blouses, a canary yellow two-piece

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Raquel Allegra Pre-Fall 2019

Like many designers, Raquel Allegra looked back to the Nineties for inspiration this season, specifically her high school years in which one of her favorite pieces of clothing was a DKNY T-shirt borrowed from a boyfriend. Incorporating the oversize initials “RALA” into one of her slouchy, fine-gauge knit Ts was one of her bolder nods to the decade.
The others came in more subtle fashion: the hero piece, a camouflage tie-dyed mesh anorak; a subtle gradient grey washed silk blouse; or a navy button-front, midcalf-length skirt.
Each season, Allegra finds new ways to manipulate her signature tie-dyed silks and cottons, while copiously layering in new fabrications and updated silhouettes. This season, it was the olive, brown and navy tie-dye masquerading as camouflage that was her starting point, as the earth tones grounded her collection.
Around these mesh and woven pieces, she added layers for underneath such as a Nineties throwback ribbed tank dress, and on top, a quilted cotton olive trench or a sleeveless coppery satin duster. Allegra also offered more luxury-casual looks such as a washed silk blouse and cotton jersey pant work together as a tie-dyed lavender and marigold matching set.
Look for more a more pronounced evolution of the collection for

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Warm RTW Pre-Fall 2019

“In summer, everyone’s tan. Everyone feels thinner even if they’re not…maybe it’s just the tan…but for me, I make happy clothes and clothes that try to make you feel happy and like you’re on vacation while grinding it out in the city,” Warm designer Winnie Beattie mused. The designer used knowledge from her own store, customer requests of buy-now warm-weather pieces, combined with requests from her buyers for transitional pieces that can still sit on the floor come early fall, as well. Envisioning those warm summer nights, Beattie designed a lovely collection to appease both.
There were easy printed voile dresses — floral mumus, geode minis — or washed silk jumpsuits with pussy bows and rompers fit for Beattie’s clambake nights in Amagansett, N.Y., that also stayed true to her unwavering versatility. Throw on one of her washed macro-floral printed silk or striped cotton dresses with a pair of Manolos for a summer wedding or dirty Chucks for running around, either worked wonderfully. Plaid “rainbow” cover-ups — a matching surf poncho and trouser — took the place of summer sweaters (because sweaters in the summer is “like admitting it’s cold, which is a horrible, sad thing,” Beattie quipped) made a stellar addition to the

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Moon Choi Pre-Fall 2019

“I started from cuddling people,” designer Moon Choi unexpectedly remarked. “I want to make clothing that comforts one’s life because clothing is the one thing that touches the skin first.” Choi embraced her first pre-fall collection quite literally, with modernly tweaked tailored garments that very subtly mimicked the gestures of cuddling. One of the key pieces included an overlapped double-breasted jacket with sashes that could be criss-crossed and buttoned on opposite sides, offered both long and short. “Like someone is holding you,” Choi explained. Blazers and trousers were given detachable fabric sashes that could be buttoned inside or outside a row of buttons on the garments to distort their shape as if the wearer’s clothing was being bunched during a hug.
As always, Choi’s garments were designed to be defined not by gender, but by size and after last season’s introduction of lighter materials and dresses, Choi returned to her roots with a fall-based, tailored lineup with eccentric touches that lean more refined than kitschy. “Tailoring is center to design methodology because I think it’s very attractive. It has very limited silhouettes, but in this silhouette, I can make a balance between my skills and my creativities,” she stated. The rest

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Chalayan Pre-Fall 2019

Hussein Chalayan’s collection was filled with beautifully constructed clothes that would fit into any luxury wardrobe: There were asymmetric, lightly draped dresses in striped jersey or dogtooth fabrics; roomy trousers with side pleats or appliquéd panels lightly hanging on the sides; separates in a colorful forest print painted in a Chinese style, and skirts made voluminous with deep, contrasting pleats.
Apart from being a master at draping and creating unique constructions, Chalayan is also curious — and a deep thinker. This season he let his imagination run loose, unpicking the concept of pretending. Every drape, pleat and layer in the new range was informed by his philosophical interpretation of what it means to try to be someone else.
Turning the idea on its head, Chalayan bypassed all the negativity and instead focused on pretending as a catalyst to the imagination or “a medium that can healthily lift us away from our reality, adding richness to the monotony of our lives.” He also broke down the word pre-tension, discovering another alternative meaning of “applying tension to an object before use, to make it stronger.”
Chalayan managed to turn all of that abstraction into reality with clothes inspired by activities that can take the human body away from its

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Camilla and Marc Pre-Fall 2019

Siblings Camilla Freeman-Topper and Marc Freeman sought to explore the idea of human connection and intimacy for pre-fall. In a positive note, that meant injecting clothes with comfort, through both cozy fabric selection and design. There were silhouettes that cocooned and wrapped the body, like a transparent Lurex knit top and roomy, angora wool windowpane coat with detachable scarf to bundle up in. Sporty zip-up bodysuits and sweaters with a casual element rounded out wardrobe enhancers essential for layering.
A hallmark of the brand is approachable, easy chic, found namely in empowered tailoring. A plaid coat cut on the bias was a striking example of understated luxury for both its contouring effect and easy wear. A velvet herringbone blazer featured strong, accentuated shoulders in a great proposition for power suiting. They played to house codes of harmonious contrasts by offering fluid evening dresses to offset structured tailoring. There was an effortlessness to a billowy sheer red dress with great movement, and playfulness in the fringe framing an hourglass shape to a camel dress.
Freeman-Topper made a point to highlight the brand’s seasonless appeal. “I’ve always said Camilla and Marc is forever,” she said on a call from Australia, adding: “We have pieces

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Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2019

Designer Stacey Bendet is all about emotional clothing. It’s what drives her design process, which has undertones of female empowerment. It also drove a new direction in the look book shoot to mirror videos she’s made recently that bring her clothes to life. She shot against a black backdrop to allow the clothes to really pop. Her theme for the season, after all, was a blend of pop art, Twiggy and the swinging Sixties, but brought into modern day with her signature thread of eclectic confidence.
The mixed prints here were the most striking, and ranged from a rainbow of snake prints on an accordion pleat dress to a wicked mash-up of florals, animal prints, mod checks and stripes in an easy wrap gown. She extracted the florals to create a burnout fabric, which she pieced together into a flowy colorful dress. She highlighted colorblocking elsewhere with a great tailored plaid trench and matching miniskirt.
The collection maintained an energetic tone that worked for a number occasions. A lightweight black-and-white plaid coat for day, sexy snakeskin burnout separates and saturated monochromatic looks for the office, or a patchwork denim jacket that read “love more” and “game changer” to keep it cool while

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Naeem Khan Pre-Fall 2019

Naeem Khan lives in a world of opulence. Elaborately embroidered gowns, as in one this season with captivating floral appliqué, and drama, like red and navy iterations of a bridal jumpsuit with overskirt, factor heavily into his seasonal offerings. But with jumpsuits and short flirty dresses accounting for 40 percent of his bridal business, Khan is aware of a want for ease. His previous endeavors from spring and resort, especially, have focused on separates and an approachable glamour for a younger clientele.
He continued that narrative for pre-fall, and the range of occasions was quite vast. For girls not quite ready for a long-term commitment, Khan offered sheer beaded jackets and delicate yet formal sweaters that easily transitioned day-to-night for multiple wear opportunity. Silhouettes remained relaxed, as in sequined or drawstring pants with skin-baring side strips that maintained an element of allure. He offered new bold jungle and tropical prints for summer destinations, too, cut into lightweight, packable dresses and a body-curving caftan. The real standouts here were minimalistic dresses influenced by his time at Halston, including sequin knit dresses that form like liquid on the body and a new version of a caftan in seductive red that’s fitted in front

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Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2019

The company’s rich archives, the vivid colors of 16th-century painter Bronzino, whose paintings are on show at the Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence, as well as the effortless sartorial elegance of iconic men, including Mick Jagger and John Kennedy Jr., served as inspiration for the Salvatore Ferragamo women’s and men’s pre-fall collection.
During a walk-through at the company’s Milanese headquarters, women’s creative director Paul Andrew and men’s design director Guillaume Meilland put the focus on the coherent attitude running through the women’s and men’s looks. These actually exuded the same luxurious elegance, revealing the high-end craftsmanship deeply rooted in the brand’s heritage.
Taking a step back from the dark tones of the last few collections, the designers played with a lighter, more lively color palette, including bright green, orange, red and ice gray. Constructions were also softened to welcome a sense of relaxed sophistication. For example, upscale padded coats were crafted from silky fabrics, men’s shearling and leather jackets and women’s suede trenchcoats were cut in clean, lean silhouettes, while chic suits revealed a deconstructed approach.
Knitwear took center stage with precious plissé skirts, dresses showing built-in ties to wrap around the neck and embroidered cashmere sweaters. Archival prints were revamped included the

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Nanushka Pre-Fall 2019

“Effortless femininity that reflects the brand’s signature, modern nomadic aesthetic infused by Seventies interior design inspiration. I’m really attracted to the Seventies interiors and also the Seventies architecture,” Budapest-based Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor said of her vast pre-fall collection, pointing to Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill and Mexican artist Javier Senosiain. The collection leaned more Bofill than Senosiain with clean lines and an earth tone palette but the largest inspiration came from Seventies-inspired interiors and upholstery. For instance, velvet puffed bags and vegan leather garments such as a quilted, updated version of its Hude puffer jacket embodied a comfortable yet clean upholstery. Prints were also inspired by vintage duvets: a washed floral tank top and underlayer set or new snake print on a button-up shirt and skirt combination and updated puffer jacket.
The nomadic aesthetic — “the essence of the Nanushka philosophy” — that is rooted in the brand’s Hungarian roots flowed through in relaxed, elongated silhouettes such as long sweaters piled over skirts or daydresses with Western hints on their pockets and collars. Sandor also used tonal, fabric covered rope and tie-techniques to emphasize the female figure. There were wrapped silk dresses as well as front-tie napa leather offerings. Accessories included a

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Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2019

Inspired by a post-World War I quote from curator Alistair O’Neill, “Women had gotten used to wearing their husbands’ cardigans,” Fran Stringer patched together feminine and masculine silhouettes for this cozy, laid-back collection.
Oversized knitwear was worn over flowy knitted trousers, while other knits included a cable-knit granddad-style cardigan and a twin set in the form of a khaki brown sweater and asymmetric skirt with ribbing.
 

Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy

 
Stringer also adopted a “make do and mend” attitude. Classic cable-knit and intarsia argyle styles were reworked and patched together and whipped into a multicolored boxy jumper and a midi dress in black and green with a high neck.
Details on other knits included ruffle cuffs and necklines and vintage-looking buttons on oversized cardigans. An outfit composed of a roomy, acid green twin set and cargo-style military trousers with a high waist looked cool and chic.

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Temperley London Pre-Fall 2019

Alice Temperley has been rethinking her business structure and embracing change — the ultimate aim being to sharpen her focus and offer smaller, but better-targeted collections.
Her latest pre-fall range offers a taste of her renewed vision for the brand: Her flair for color, pattern and all things feminine and sequined remain intact, but she is embracing a more laid-back mood and adding a heftier dose of daywear into the mix.
It came in the form of chic shirtdresses, loose tailoring and silk kimono jackets, drawing on the designer’s love of Japanese design and culture.
She also looked to Eastern woodblock prints and Japanese graphic designer Tadanori Yokoo’s posters and matchboxes to inspire the season’s prints. They were loosely translated in the form of geometric patterns on loose tailored pieces or gold flame patterns featured on silk lamé dresses.
One silk lamé dress came in a bright chartreuse shade and a wrap silhouette. The way it flowed around the body and its ability to transition from day to night seemed to encapsulate Temperley’s new direction and the potential of the brand in daywear.
The designer also wanted to add a stronger sense of ease in the range’s eveningwear section, which remains key nevertheless: Sequins were

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AlexaChung Pre-Fall 2019

Since launching her eponymous label, Chung has experimented with an array of characters and personalities: She took her woman from airport lounges to music gigs and channeled some of her literary heroines such as Virginia Wolf, but she now has a more focused idea of the direction she wants to take. Her latest muse is Joan, named after Joan of Arc.
“At the beginning of this journey, we were just making things for fun, and figuring it out as it went along. Now it seems to me that a woman is emerging, and Joan of Arc felt like a good symbolic person to start with, because it’s about reframing how we perceive feminine strength,” Chung mused during a preview. “We started with a call to arms, but ended with something very soft and pretty and the idea that there is as much power in leaning into your vulnerabilities. Her in the nightgown is better than her with the sword.”
Chung translated all of this into metallic suits, fishnet blouses, and snake-printed corseted tops — a modern take on armor. They were juxtaposed with more romantic ruffled skirts and charming high-necked floral blouses, broderie anglaise dresses and loose knits with heart intarsias on the sleeves.
There

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Agnona Pre-Fall 2019

Frida Kahlo served as inspiration for several designers over the decades. Agnona creative director Simon Holloway, though, focused on a more personal and private aspect of the Mexican artist, rather than on her colorful and exotic style.
Inspired by an exhibition of her personal belongings hosted at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum earlier this year, Holloway looked at Kahlo’s makeup and fragrances, which stimulated his sophisticated color sensibility. Delicate blush and pink tones were juxtaposed with purple, brown and gray shades in the elegant collection, which offered an upscale, covetable wardrobe for women looking for timeless, durable pieces with a modern spin.
Agnona’s outstanding textile quality stood out in the plush, cozy yet lightweight designs, including an effortless chic ribbed cardigan layered on a sable fur vest, felted cashmere narrow double-breasted coats and hyper feminine plissé knitted skirts and tops. The sense of relaxed refinement infused in the lineup was highlighted by the velour tracksuits worn with oversize camel coats, while trenchcoats crafted from luxurious performance materials revealed the collection’s practical attitude.
Continuing working with a coherent and cohesive approach, Holloway is actually shaping the new image of the Agnona brand, which is actually widening its offering to welcome onboard the younger generations

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Dior Pre-Fall 2019

Oh, how times have changed. Back in 1968, a pop music show on French TV might feature Françoise Hardy performing in a dress custom-made by Christian Dior from an original sketch by Sonia Delaunay. As a bonus, the segment in question began with Delaunay and Dior couturier Marc Bohan discussing the collaboration.
Cut to 2018, when a designer outfit might merit at best a cursory glance and “like” on Instagram, before the eye skips to the next quick-fix gratification. Maria Grazia Chiuri knows today’s audience has little patience for the complexities of technique and design, yet she’s also convinced they are the essence of luxury.
Her pre-fall collection reveled in the kind of intricate detail that gets lost in pictures, but forges a powerful emotional connection in real life. That gripping archival footage of an 83-year-old Delaunay got her thinking about how the artist used embroidery and color in her work in the early 20th century.
“I think it was really something revolutionary for the time,” Chiuri mused.
In intellectual terms, the collection was all about craft as a vehicle for women’s artistic expression — as explored in feminist art historian Rozsika Parker’s seminal book “The Subversive Stitch.” On an emotional level, it connected with

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Chloé Pre-Fall 2019

Natacha Ramsay-Levi built on the key elements that have become associated with the Chloé look since taking over the creative helm three seasons ago, moving between the clashing colors and prints of the line’s Seventies mix and a more proper bourgeois vibe à la Eighties — with a dash of Victoriana in the tie-neck blouses.
“The way we do fashion now is a lot about remixes and transformation, doing something new with something old,” she said.
The collection’s boho vibe was on fine form, as always without too much of a romantic tilt, with the designer folding feminine soft elements like printed silk blouses and scarves into hard-edged looks. Key ingredients included Carnaby Street-inspired velvet; trompe l’oeil-printed houndstooth fabrics that gave a horsey, “Wuthering Heights” flavor, and utilitarian wear.
Standout silhouettes included a flower-print, high-neck sweater with billowing sleeves and long, ribbed cuffs worn under a silk dress in a patchwork of flower prints with asymmetric flounces; a black silk, Victoriana-style, tie-neck blouse with a big, white, lace collar worn with high-waisted flared shorts in a cool, wool, check fabric; and a high-neck blouse in a bourgeois, chain-link print with a signature horse logo, jacquard, knitted vest, worn with ultra-long, flared purple pants.
Giving a palpable accessories push, the

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Staud Pre-Fall 2019

“Sand, summer, sea,” Sarah Staudinger described of the beginnings of her latest collection for Staud. From the sand, terry cloth was introduced à la striped three-piece sets — cropped top, skirt, duster — with matching bucket hat and Bisset bag, as well as beach ready cover-ups — raw-edge seashell-colored linen sarongs with raw edges, jumpsuits and tunics and men’s wear-inspired button-ups. Summer was encapsulated through an array of adorable picnic inspired garb in poppy hues like tablecloth gingham compact knit playsuits and matching sets and plenty of crudite emblazoned offerings. The best foodie-looks included a salad printed waffle minidress with matching cardigan or a matching neon green knit set with fringe made of mini glass lemons (and matching croakies). To round out the collection, vibrant technical tube tops, skirts, shorts and dresses of varying lengths referenced the sea with pull-ties to create volume and billowing sleeves.
Accessories were a hit as well — old bags had new prints (gingham) or fabrics (linen and lizard) while new bags came triangular (big and small) and cylindrical; there were even leather sunglass-case attachments and matching sandals to complete the looks. The lineup was playful and encapsulated the fresh summer feeling through the more

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Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2019

Giorgio Armani injected a young and fun vibe into his Emporio Armani collection.
The lineup’s eye-catching look was conveyed through the flamboyant patchwork of jacquard motifs peppering coats, the graphic wild animal motifs printed on suits — their mannish silhouettes softened by the plush velvet fabric — as well as by slightly exaggerated shapes. For example, a blue Neoprene blazer and deep green trenchcoat, which was layered over a feminine, ruffled silk dress, showed bold, oversize cuts.
Denim enhanced the urban vibe of the collection with bleached jeans matched with a two-tone faux fur coat and loafers for an updated, cool tomboy look. Slim jeans were also matched with sartorial jackets, enriched by maxi buttons adding an eccentric touch.

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Nicole Miller RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Nicole Miller featured her pre-fall collection on a character who embodied its mix of tough and tender — model and professional skydiver Alyona Subbotina.
“I had such a strong personality wear them. She worked into the story because I felt I always design for that strong girl who has the feminine soft side and the edge together,” Miller mused. Camouflage prints with tiny flowers were mixed with dark floral prints on multiple easy dresses, and most memorably on an oversize utility coat. One little black dress had bows sewn all over it. “If you’re a goody-two-shoe, you make it all bows, and if you’re a badass, you make it all knots or let it hang, but I showed it half and half for duality,” the designer explained.
Miller referred to her light-colored floral frocks as “the sweeter things in life,” and mixed in bomber jackets and half-leather, half-cotton denim pants to toughen them up.

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R13 Pre-Fall 2019

R13’s Chris Leba is in the throes of consolidating his offices into a new downtown space — and gearing up to open his first brick-and-mortar store on the ground level sometime next year. Women’s market is in full swing, then men’s, then women’s again.
He drew light inspiration for his pre-fall from Sofia Coppola’s film “Marie Antoinette,” enticed by its frivolity and baroque elements. Subtle winks to the film were seen in the ruffles on billowing button-down shirts, and sand-washed floral-printed silks rendered into easy and sexy tops with animal print accents. Otherwise, the collection featured Leba’s usual balance of eccentric punk, tailoring and inventive denim.
At the core of the collection were young, exciting, wearable clothes with gender-ambiguous undertones. A bleached group of suiting and sweatshirts with safety-pin embellishments provided edge to more formal men’s-inspired attire, and upcycled vintage motorcycle jackets which are specially studded in Los Angeles and can’t easily be replicated. One effortlessly cool pinstriped blazer was cut generously and studded along the lapels. Leba noted many of the tailored items could end up in the men’s line, following a recent trend of gender-fluid design.
He thrived when using denim to experiment with new, inventive shapes, such as jackets with

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Lafayette 148 Pre-Fall 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s formula for pre-fall was a little bit American southwest mixed with the work of light and space artist James Turrell, who is best known for the Roden Crater, a large-scale installation set inside a volcanic cinder cone in the Painted Desert region of Arizona. The result was a wide range of breezy silhouettes balancing a sense of ease with cool. Smith has been steering the brand in a younger direction the past few seasons, and this collection seemed to mark the full realization of those efforts.
References to the inspirations were light, and seen only through ombré, tie-dye and landscape prints in rich, earthy tones. A buttery camel leather coat with ombré effect displayed the collection’s sleek sensibility, while a gray leather jacket and skirt with the same dip-dye effect leaned more edgy and fun. Dresses were used as a canvas and featured abstract sand dunes and cloud prints — none of which read literal. An elegant chambray dress with obilike belt was the closest thing to Wild West fashion. She focused on silhouettes that lend themselves to easy summer dressing, including lounge-y and chic pajama sets, cotton wrap-front blouses and a great oversized travel scarf created by

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Cushnie Pre-Fall 2019

A Cartier ad, an Eddie Murphy movie and Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang. It sounds like a mixed bag of references, yet Carly Cushnie managed to extract a common thread of opulence to inform her lovely pre-fall collection, brimming with sensual dresses for which the brand is known and a key expansion of daywear.
The Cartier ad was by Jean Larivière in the Fifties, where a leopard slinks its way inside a store, representing a type of otherworldly glamour you can only dream of. It led the designer to think about the late Eighties comedy “Coming to America,” where Murphy plays a prince coming to New York from a made-up African country. Mixed together, they provided Cushnie with a recipe for light Eighties silhouettes and overall posh gloss, seen in exaggerated shoulders throughout and the draped tulle sleeves of a fabulous little black dress.
Cai Guo-Qiang’s “Heritage” piece of 99 animals sharing a watering hole informed the color palette and use of mixed prints. The mixed print dresses and skirts were the most captivating upon first glance, featuring asymmetric construction offsetting animal prints, colorblocking and pleats. But monotone dresses with sculptural lines and fluid construction proved to be more seductive, like a red

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See by Chloé Pre-Fall 2019

In the late Eighties and early Nineties, Amy Arbus took her first street-style photographs in New York. For pre-fall, the Parisian See by Chloé girl channels those streets — “a time when youth culture thrived amidst the city’s diverse social scenes” — clad in a juxtaposition of boyish-prep-meets-fresh-femininity. Cue Prince of Wales carrot pants paired with a lilac, Victorian-inspired ruffled shirt and chunky clogs, or a varsity poncho over a drop-hem day dress and paisley pussy-bow blouse.
Paisley prints and embroidered trims ran their course throughout in faded and dusty blues on flirty matching sets and breezy dresses, while sweaters — from chunky ribbed or slightly distressed dresses to sweater vests and cardigans — kept looks cool. A particularly great paisley sweater, paired with oversized denim shorts, made for a great mash-up, as did the strongest look: a gold brocade button-up shirt, cinched under a wide belt and paired with a paneled gray denim and beige cotton carrot pant. The lineup gave modern interpretation to Arbus characters of yore.

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2019

“It’s just amazing how dynamic society is today, how global events just rear their heads and it changes the environment that you’re in, even the pace of what we do — everything,” said Clare Waight Keller.
The designer was talking about the genesis of her pre-fall collection for Givenchy, which was inspired by Joseph Cambell’s classic “The Power of Myth,” a book she turned to recently in an effort to make sense of an increasingly chaotic environment. The Greek myth of Icarus, whose hubris led to his demise, felt particularly relevant.
Waight Keller was drawn to its symbolism, in an era when nuclear war — or a Chinese consumer boycott — may be just an ill-judged social media message away. She also liked how it provided a graphic hook for the women’s and men’s looks, in the form of hand-painted prints and bursts of solar yellow and fiery red.
The women’s wardrobe was structured around two key silhouettes: long and lean for the tailored coats with neat shoulders, crisp bolero jackets with finlike arched sleeves, and monochrome evening gowns; boldly oversized for the fake furs, cocoon coats and Eighties-style leather trenches.
Hand-crafted details abounded, from the threaded ruching on the front of a buttery

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Tanya Taylor Pre-Fall 2019

“Lisbon is the coolest, it’s like a melting pot of all of your different cities.…It doesn’t feel like it’s fully finalized its identity, which I love, because you’re still discovering and it’s not like every tourist is at the same place,” designer Tanya Taylor said of her first trip to Portugal in August. From her travels, Taylor brought back the breezy, coastal spirit and infused it into her latest pre-fall collection.
Shapes felt clean and fresh, cut slimmer with flirty open-back details or slightly puffed sleeves in place of the anticipated abundance of ruffles. “Everything just felt so easy and soft and kind of feminine,” Tanya described of Portugal, which she infused into her line à la a palette of classic blues (from navy to “minty-turquoise”) and purples in various artful floral prints, as well as black-and-white polka dots, on easy dresses and flowy skirts. Newness came through knits: electric lime pointelle and chunky, striped terry-cloth-matching cardigans and little cropped sweaters, sporty knit dresses.
Taylor rounded out the collection with a group of red and blue surfer étoile printed pieces inspired by her time at Gigi’s Beach Bar in the Portuguese Algarve region. The collection embodied Taylor description of her girl:

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Sally LaPointe Pre-Fall 2019

Real or faux? As the great fur debate has moved brands passionately one way or the other, Sally LaPointe has kept her cool. The designer has become synonymous with covetable fur-accented sweaters and, with the launch of e-commerce earlier this year, has certainly seen a demand for mink. But she also introduced faux fur and shearling for resort and has seen interest here from a younger, more conscientious clientele.
She continued to expand that fur language into pre-fall, using fox fur as trimming on cozy-yet-sleek knitwear while utilizing faux fur and shearling in bold, statement outerwear. The brand is founded upon the principle of casual yet cool glam, so a faux-fur duster was grounded with a cut-and-sew wool alpaca set or sequined pants and a turtleneck, topped off by silver o-ring zipper pulls.
The collection’s Nineties tinge was drawn from men’s wear, which influenced soft tailoring done in dusty yellows and blues, sweatsuits made from Lurex and merino wool, and pinstripes fashioned into a standout graphic cashmere and merino wool top and pant. No look better defined the retro men’s influence than knit basketball shorts and a sweater set cut in a yummy papaya hue. Buttery suede separates, elevated silky pajama sets

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L’Autre Chose Pre-Fall 2019

Nicolò Beretta made his ready-to-wear debut at L’Autre Chose, which he joined in September as creative director, with an easy-to-wear, commercially savvy collection.
The brand’s signature French spirit gave an effortless chic attitude to the lineup, which also celebrated the Parisian lifestyle with a charming print reproducing the view of a typical café in the City of Light.
The collection offered a realistic wardrobe for the dynamic women of today. Teddy bear coats, flared denim pants, crepe sheath dresses and silk frocks printed with elegant and feminine motifs inspired by the influence of the Eastern culture in the Twenties’ Western art, were well-executed, versatile staples. Along with developing more fashionable embroidered dresses and cozy knits, Beretta developed a smart range of blouses, enriched with special ornaments, including plissé inserts.
The founder of footwear label Giannico, Beretta masterfully showed his design skills in the footwear range, including revisited loafers embellished with drapes, boots crafted from a rubberized leather and pumps showing the chunky heels punctuated by a metallic accessory inspired by the antique handles of Parisian front doors.

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Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2019

Georgia O’Keeffe — a perfect fashion muse for now, independent to the core, urbane and earthy, her defiance of convention manifested in an appealing sartorial practicality. She offers a wealth of visual imagery to mine, both in her work and the portraits of her by her husband, Alfred Stieglitz.
“I just love her, and how she went against the norm,” Tory Burch said during a walk-through of her pre-fall collection. “She was a person who wasn’t going to wear a corset, and she wore flats. Just the way she approached nature and her subjects is fascinating to me.”
That fascination led to an investigative trip to Santa Fe and O’Keeffe’s famed Ghost Ranch, from which Burch drew inspiration for her lineup. It features clean, unfettered silhouettes with hints the artist’s own style — crisp shirtdresses, an unfussy smocked number, subtle Japanese touches. From O’Keeffe’s work, Burch took saturated shades of warm, russets and reds played against sober navy, ivory black and white. She also incorporated abstract prints, bold stripes, cowhide and unfussy decorative elements such as mirror embroideries for an aura of casual confidence. Burch also worked in the occasional embroidered slipdress. Whether a nod to O’Keeffe’s New York years or merely

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Jil Sander RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Lucie and Luke Meier continue to reshape the image of the Jil Sander label with a balance between elegance and coolness. Those customers who cried after Phoebe Philo exited Celine will find plenty of options here to satisfy their needs for revamped minimalism — long a Sander signature, going back to the days of the brand’s founder.
Generous yet graphic shapes, sculptural yet simple silhouettes, straightforward yet comforting messages — the designers played with contrasting forces, which they balanced in a wardrobe translating an idea of intellectual, elevated and empowered femininity.
The Meiers like to play with a sense of coziness, from the roomy cashmere coats layered over mannish suits and the flocked ample tops and dresses worked in wallpaper-like patterns to the super soft oversize padded outerwear wrapping around the body.
Checkered blankets became sophisticated fringed tops and coats, while floral eyelet brought a feminine touch to chic separates with a sartorial feel.
A hint of discreet eccentricity was added with the patchwork of striped motifs, rendered on graphic shirts, crewneck tops, pants with buttons running down the legs and pencil skirts, highlighting the playful side of the Jil Sander woman.

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Etro Pre-Fall 2019

“Artsy Craftsy” was the name of Etro’s pre-fall collection. “The collection is inspired by strong women such as art collectors who like to travel and love bold colors, patterns and unique techniques,” said the brand’s women’s wear creative director Veronica Etro, highlighting the artistic spirit she infused into her lineup. This visually impactful flair, conveyed with a flamboyant métissage of paisley motifs, floral graphics, jacquard drawings and bold colorblocking, refreshed the nomadic attitude traditionally associated with the Milanese brand.
While playing with rich fabrics, prints and textures, Etro kept the silhouettes clean and linear. Eye-catching patchwork coats and jackets, including a blazer crafted from a tactile, 3-D material and trimmed with contrasting piping, were matched with cropped, slightly flared denim pants or fluid, silk trousers showing asymmetric prints running down the legs.
The breezy dresses had a vibrant feel, evoking Latin American rhythms, while elegant styles in solid black, including a chic belted evening jacket cut from a technical fabric and a cashmere coat, revealed subtle tone-on-tone decorations for a more discreet take on Etro’s signature maximalist style.

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Exclusive: Coach to Show Pre-Fall in Shanghai

Coach is taking its pre-fall show on the road — all the way to China for the first time.
The brand today will reveal that it will hold a runway show — titled “Coach Lights Up Shanghai” — and after party on The Bund, the city’s popular waterfront.
The event will be held on Dec. 8 and is intended to commemorate the brand’s 15th anniversary in China.
The collection will feature specially designed accessories, ready-to-wear and sneakers created by Coach creative director Stuart Vevers in collaboration with important Chinese cultural figures.
“We selected Shanghai as the venue for our first dual-gender runway show outside of New York City in recognition of the important relationship with have with Chinese consumers,” said Joshua Schulman, chief executive officer and president of Coach. “As we celebrate 15 years in the market, we look forward to building an even closer connection between Coach and our fans in China.”
Vevers said staging the pre-fall show in Shanghai “is a big moment for Coach and for me personally. Shanghai is one of the most vibrant, youthful and contemporary cities I have ever visited. It has a distinct energy that is inspiring and exciting — just like New York. I’m most looking forward to taking the spirit of the new Coach and the attitude and energy of New York to

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EXCLUSIVE: Dior to Stage First Men’s Pre-Fall Runway Show in Tokyo

PARIS — In the latest sign that Dior is beefing up its men’s business, the French fashion house plans to stage its first men’s pre-fall runway show with a collection designed by Kim Jones scheduled to bow in Tokyo on Nov. 30, WWD has learned exclusively.
The choice of location reflects not just the brand’s long-term relationship with the country, but also the British designer’s fondness for Japan and the strategic importance of the Asian market.
The show will coincide with a Dior men’s pop-up at department store Isetan in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district, set to open on Nov. 28 for two weeks, that will carry the first collection designed by Jones. The capsule line for summer 2019 will simultaneously go on sale at the Dior flagship in Ginza ahead of its global launch on Dec. 1.
Jones told WWD in July the capsule would include denim pieces embroidered with Dior’s signature bee, as reimagined by U.S. artist Kaws, whose real name is Brian Donnelly, who also designed a monumental floral sculpture for the designer’s debut Dior show in Paris in July.
The spring collection featured new accessories, including a men’s version of the Saddle bag; belts with a stylized CD buckle created by Matthew

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Chanel Returning to the Met for Its Pre-Fall Show

WE JUST MET: Chanel, the subject of a major exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2005, is returning to the landmark New York museum in December to parade its next Métiers d’Art collection. The show will be held Dec. 4.
Chanel has a long association with New York, a city that Coco Chanel first visited in 1931, according to the fashion house. U.S. department stores were among her strongest early supporters, having carried her first hat collections from 1912. “Karl Lagerfeld is also very attached to the American mega-city whose energy and light he has always loved to capture,” Chanel said.
The December show, further details of which have yet to be revealed, will mark the third time Chanel has shown in Manhattan after the presentation at the brand’s boutique on 57th Street in 2005 for the Métiers d’Art collection and its 2006 cruise show in Grand Central Terminal.
The luxurious Métiers d’Art collection, conceived by Lagerfeld as a way to exalt the specialty couture ateliers Chanel owns, typically travels to a destination — Edinburgh, Salzburg, Dallas, Rome — and recounts a chapter of the house lore, real or imagined.
In 2017, Lagerfeld took the itinerant pre-fall show to his hometown of Hamburg in

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Roland Mouret Pre-Fall 2018

Roland Mouret said he wanted a collection that was all about movement, lightness and freedom and, to wit, played with volume, draping and longer lengths. A long and loose cotton shirtdress had string ties at the wrists and could be worn open or closed at the back. Languid, unlined trenches had epaulet details that melted into the shoulder or came with geometric patterns and fringed edges. Dresses were lightweight and airy, as in a long powder pink one in a textured organza with Mouret’s signature folds around the neck. A featherweight, off-the shoulder gown in Lurex brocade was versatile enough to wear with sneakers or stilettos.

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Zero + Maria Cornejo Pre-Fall 2018

“I’ve been dreaming about going on a trip so this collection is all about my fantasy of going to North Africa. I was inspired by the idea of their beautiful bazaars and being in that eclectic atmosphere.” — Maria Cornejo

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Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2018

Sarah Burton played with contrasts for pre-fall, creating fragile, romantic looks and ones with a more tailored, urban edge. She juxtaposed androgynous tailoring with more decadent lace, knit and embroidered pieces, in a bid to create a “darkly romantic” mood. Long lace tiered tops were layered over tailored pants, while romantic printed dresses were paired with edgier leather harnesses. Blazers featured cutouts and lace appliqués. The collection also had touches of British art nouveau and with the patterns on a pleated silk dress recalling the inky lines of Aubrey Beardsley. The collection was filled with gossamer knit skirts and dresses, some with ruffles, and others with transparent panels that gave the garments a otherworldly look. The collection’s evening offer featured a series of high-shine sequined looks, including a floor-length chiffon gown delicately embroidered to create floral patterns.

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Michael Kors RTW Pre-Fall 2018

“I liked the dichotomy this season of romantic and charming elements mixed with sleek tailoring,” says Michael Kors. “It’s a mix of femininity, polish and athleticism. To me it is the perfect storm for how women want to dress today. The collection is inherently about modern eclecticism.”

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Au Jour Le Jour Pre-Fall 2018

The look of gypsy women served as the starting point for Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana’s pre-fall collection for Au Jour Le Jour. Instead of taking the inspiration too literally, the duo managed to rework it and nicely incorporate it into an urban wardrobe for hip, young women.
Layering, a key element of the gypsy look, influenced the charming outerwear, which included a style featuring a checkered coat combined with a faux shearling jacket. Aprons were worn over striped Bermuda pants and the inside-out denim skinny trousers. The signature braids of gypsy women echoed in the long embroidered details applied on the backs of cocktail dresses.
The collection also included a range of playful eco-fur chubby coats, patchwork jeans and several pieces, including a plissé midi skirt and a more casual sweatshirt, printed with images of Caravaggio’s still lives with fruits.

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Martin Grant Pre-Fall 2018

Martin Grant just launched a capsule collection for men, so it was hardly surprising that his women’s pre-fall designs had an androgynous slant.
In fact, the designer only slightly tweaked some of his men’s styles — including a trouser suit and an oversize navy coat — to adapt them to the female form. Call it a 180-degree switch: It was his tuxedo design for French director Nicole Garcia that originally led to him creating a similar style for men.
Not that it really matters: Grant’s daywear has always been grounded in luxurious staples, such as this season’s check coat with a removable shearling collar, or a jumbo cord trench. “Quiet luxury — I mean, it’s very much about the fabrics, the textures, a very, very soft fabric feel,” he said of the collection.
A case in point was a fuzzy gray alpaca sweater that read like a very upscale spin on a sweatshirt. It came in a women’s size, but Grant suggested borrowing the men’s version for an even roomier fit. The more overtly feminine options were easy yet chic: lightweight denim pieces with topstitched details, a black jersey turtleneck dress and a cocoon-like camel cape coat.
Grant left the eveningwear for later: As

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Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2018

The rise of ath-leisure has many luxury brands scrambling to produce a version of the ubiquitous sneaker. Fortunately for Louis Vuitton, that wasn’t much of a stretch for its women’s wear designer Nicolas Ghesquière, whose aesthetic has always flirted with sportswear.
His spring collection featured 18th-century-style brocade frock coats paired with chunky trainers, in what many observers saw as the tipping point of the “ugly sneaker” trend. His pre-fall collection cemented the evolution, with not only a new sock sneaker style, but a wardrobe that matched it for ease of wear.
Cinched jackets and neat leather coats provided the working wardrobe options — a kind of loosened-up version of the Sixties-inspired, futuristic tailoring that has French First Lady Brigitte Macron hooked on Vuitton. A gray wool belted jacket, for instance, was paired with black chenille wool track pants and lace-up heels.
By contrast, floor-length skirts were dressed down with casual tops and chunky outerwear. These included a white, side-split skirt that was layered under a gray hoodie embroidered with letters spelling out “Louis Vuitton” — an upscale twist on the logo sweatshirt — and an azure blue fake fur coat.
“We are constantly in movement and on a journey, be it a physical or

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Trussardi Pre-Fall 2018

Reflecting the company’s strategy, aimed at repositioning the Trussardi label in the advanced contemporary segment, creative director Gaia Trussardi delivered a dynamic, urban pre-fall collection.
Athletic references were introduced in a lineup of woman’s staples, including a jersey fitted dress that was updated with a chevron, color-blocked motif and a zipper, as well as a turtleneck sweater featuring a contrasting band on the front and snap fasteners running down the sleeves.
The mannish silhouette of a relaxed suit was balanced by its bubblegum pink color while utilitarian details, such as applied pockets and zips, peppered the range of dark indigo denim pants and skirts.
Trussardi’s leather-crafting skills took center stage in a series of high-end outerwear styles, including a patchwork shearling jacket and a trenchcoat worked in a chic brandy brown tone.

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Luisa Beccaria Pre-Fall 2018

Seventies influences injected a charming twist into Luisa Beccaria pre-fall collection.
While the label is mainly known for its romantic, feminine wedding dresses and evening gowns, the company is expanding its offering to meet the everyday needs of its international customers.
Flannel shirtdresses with exquisite floral embroideries and skirt suits punctuated by butterflies were juxtaposed with more mannish vests paired with culottes for a chic tomboy look.
A range of see-through fabrics were crafted for delicate blouses, while the brand’s signature frocks with tiny front buttons were rendered in wool. Velvet was hand-painted to obtain beautiful color effects on the ruffle dresses and the evening styles displayed the label’s craftsmanship with precious embroideries and applications.

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Andrew Gn Pre-Fall 2018

“I call this collection ‘Jackie O going to Kyoto to meet the royal family of Japan,’” declared Andrew Gn, with his trademark mix of erudition and tongue-in-cheek humor.
In practice, his pre-fall lineup centered on casual chic day options — think oversize coats, ample culottes and ruffled blouses — done in a zingy palette of acid-bright colors.
Key to the look was a woven motif, inspired by a kimono fabric from the Edo period, that blended floral designs with bright dégradé effects, in a nod to his Japanese grandmother and his own penchant for collecting antiques.
The custom-made fabric came in a sky blue-to-lemon yellow variant on a bell-shaped skirt, which was paired with a pale pink blouse in a colorful floral pattern inspired by a Minton porcelain motif. Gn threw in chunky pearls, a sequined handbag and blood-red suede boots for good measure.
“My goal is to do something that cannot be copied within 48 hours,” he said of his soigné aesthetic, with its abundance of handcrafted details. “We’re living in this high-tech world and everything moves so fast. The most luxurious thing now, and also in the future, will be things made by human hands.”
Nonetheless, the designer believes in making life easy

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Erika Cavallini Pre-Fall 2018

The French classic film “The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie” served as the starting point for Erika Cavallini’s pre-fall collection.
According to the designer, the effortless elegance of Seventies bourgeois families inspired the collection, which was focused on balancing uncomplicated silhouettes, vibrant tones and rich fabrics.
A fluid tunic dress was worked in a bright hot pink, while a macro houndstooth set, featuring a knitted cardigan matched with a coordinated pencil skirt, was rendered in yellow and beige.
Velvet coats and pants were paired with tonal blouses while a tunic, worn with matching cropped pants, showed an eccentric sculpted collar.
Mannish references echoed in the suits, including a style showing wide-leg pants and a kimono-inspired jacket, while a shirt dress combined a rigorous silhouette with an eye-catching multicolor striped pattern.

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Dhela Pre-Fall 2018

Daniella Helayel took a deep-sea dive with a collection full of prints inspired by bubbles and underwater creatures, and by the floral designs of Gustav Klimt. The designer called her pre-fall collection a “controlled explosion, a riot of color and print.”
She also stuck to her signature, floaty silhouettes, whipping up peignoirs, caftans and floor sweeping dresses that were done in a palette of bright sea blues, tropical greens and watermelon pink and silver. They hung loosely or were cinched with long, flowing belts.
Her strongest silhouettes included a long sheer chiffon dress with a high waist and a bubble print, and a navy midi dress with a circular ripple pattern done in white and blue. An ankle-grazing white dress with long and tiered cutout sleeves and tiny, multicolored embroidered stars was also a winner.
Helayel also put a renewed focus on knitwear, in the form of a rainbow striped midi dress with a high waist, and a similar skirt and twin-set combination.

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Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2018

Female adventurers like Gertrude Bell helped inspire Belgian designer Christian Wijnants, who continued being influenced by a notion of Persia, as well, while conceiving his pre-fall line.
“This woman was actually here in the summer collection — there were a lot of prints, a lot of scarves,” he said, adding this season the links to Persia are less distinct and more what sparked the notion of how women traveling want clothes that can easily — and comfortably — be worn.
This collection does successfully offer that, with its wide array of wide silhouettes, including broad sleeves and trouser pants, and soft fabrics like silks, cottons and knits — not to mention ample draping.
“I really like it when dresses have movement,” the designer said.
The line also has eye-catching prints, including ethnic floral motifs, in light colors that were developed in-house.
Christian Wijnants the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and that gave its designer pause. He reviewed the last decade of collections and identified “what I like most to do — the soft dresses, drape-y pieces, knitwear combined with prints,” Wijnants said.

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Giambattista Valli Pre-Fall 2018

For his first collection since announcing the launch of an activewear capsule line, Giambattista Valli sketched out his vision of how casual staples like track pants and down jackets might fit into his ultra-feminine universe, beloved of “It” Girls like Lauren Santo Domingo and Bianca Brandolini.
The good news is that his faithful customers won’t have to sacrifice an ounce of chic. In Valli World, puffer jacket rhymes with pink duchesse, and jogging suits feature strips of macramé lace instead of racing stripes.
That’s not to suggest he isn’t proficient in technical matters: as creative director for the last decade of Moncler’s recently discontinued Gamme Rouge line, Valli probably knows better than most designers just how far you can push techno-couture. He just doesn’t want it to look like hard work.
“It’s modern elegance. I wanted to challenge the notion that you have extreme elegance on the one hand and hoodies on the other, because I love finding common ground between the two,” he explained.
Hence, his signature chiffon day dresses could be dressed up with slouchy silver-studded black boots, or down with chubby fur loafers. The outerwear, lightweight and richly embellished, might pass for an evening jacket – just the ticket to carry

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Dior Pre-Fall 2018

Gender differences are so last century.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, who keeps close tabs on Millennial attitudes through her daughter and muse Rachele Regini, has been touting a feminist agenda since taking over design duties at Dior in 2016 — all the while, paying homage to highly specific facets of the French fashion house’s 70-year heritage.
In her pre-fall collection, she found a point of convergence between the two. The lineup, which mixed graphic men’s tailoring with her signature diaphanous evening gowns, was inspired by Surrealist artist Claude Cahun, best known for her photographic self-portraits in which she adopted a variety of guises.
Chiuri decided to explore this period after seeing the Dior retrospective at Les Arts Décoratifs, which wrapped last week after a record-breaking run. It included a room devoted to the couturier’s early career as a gallerist, and his friendships with Surrealists including Jean Cocteau and André Breton.
With her gender-ambiguous pseudonym and fondness for role-playing, Cahun makes an ideal muse for a generation craving new ways of defining themselves.
“At that time, in Paris, the modern woman was born,” said Chiuri, pointing at a mood board filled with images of the shaven-headed artist. “In a way, it’s very close to the idea that

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Paco Rabanne Pre-Fall 2018

Julien Dossena stuck to his pre-season tradition of taking the label’s spirit into easier territory for a broader audience, building a lightweight, stretchable and stylish collection.
He toned down the disco vibe of recent collections a notch, but, ever-imaginative, brought in new sources of shine. Set at an angle, vertical stripes added a layer of sophistication to a body-hugging Ziggy Stardust-inspired Lurex pantsuit. A long, navy-blue knit dress projected a different kind of metallic stripe, paint roller-style this time, with a grunge effect.
And a flowing, black crepe de chine skirt with matching top was laden with a thick layer of shimmery gray fabric paint with a rubbery feel, as if the pieces had been dipped into a pot of gooey, plastic silver.
The French designer embellished a series of fitted, see-through dresses, skirts and trousers in solid black or light peach, with small metal studs, intended for layering. Using fabrics like jersey in his quest to create a bridge between dressing for evenings and daytime all at once, he also employed silver mesh, a mainstay of the label, to fashion one of the more elegant pieces: a spiraled skirt with a slit and no lining.
“I hate lining because it adds weight, it’s

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Milly Pre-Fall 2018

Moved by the strong and beautiful women speaking out against men who have abused them, Michelle Smith designed her latest Milly collection to empower and embody them. “It has been consuming my mind, these beautiful and strong women….I see them in my mind as bullfighters. I perceive their fear of coming out and speaking out…” Smith said. She drew a visual comparison between these women and actual bullfighters, with all the fear and violence, and created a collection to honor them.
The allegory was instantly evident through the strictly white, black and red color palette. Smith focused on super high-waisted pants, skirt and shorts silhouettes, inspired by the matador’s pant, and paired them with hand-embroidered poplin blouses, polka-dot off the shoulder tops and cropped taffeta tops that tied around the neck. A leather bra and shrug, along with super fun sequin dresses, added a great dramatic flare to the collection. Smith described each piece as emotional; overall, these were fun clothes with the power.

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Trina Turk Pre-Fall 2018

Trina Turk is fully embracing a seasonless, buy-now-wear-now approach to design. She lives in Los Angeles, where it’ll be hot when pre-fall delivers in July, and her customers expect travel escapist fashion that’s lively and lightweight.
The theme for her latest collection was “Found in Translation,” culled from “Pacific Standard Time: LA/LA” exhibitions around Southern California celebrating the cross-pollination of Los Angeles and Latin American fashion. Vibrant splashes of red, pink and blue derived from architecture by Luis Barragán were found on graphic Azulejo Especial (special tile) and Flor de Jalisco floral prints cut into breezy georgette tops, cloth pants and faille dresses. The tile print was cut comfortably into a chic matching tunic and pant set easily imagined on a woman lounging poolside or exploring a bustling city. A punchy floral wrap dress could also transition day-to-night. Most playful were chenille-embroidered sweatshirts and tees that read “Hola LA.” A similar spirit of ease was seen in men’s tunics, two-tone shirting, printed pants and popular jumpsuits, cut this season with a bomber jacket collar. There was plenty of festive flair through textural play and embroidery while maintaining a signature element of lighthearted fun.

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Tibi Pre-Fall 2018

Three days into 2018, Amy Smilovic declared Tibi’s yearlong focus: “This is going to be the year of shoes, bags and China,” she said during a walk-through of the pre-fall collection. The lineup made clear her commitment to her first point with a tight but vibrant assortment of shoes in vivid colors and novelty styles including knee-high burgundy boots with Western details, purple pumps and strappy pink sandals all done in heel heights that were manageable without being mumsy. Smilovic reported exceptional growth in Tibi’s shoe business, crediting a tight offer true to her vision. “We did the same number of stockkeeping units. We don’t have to have a heel height for everyone under the sun,” she said.
As for the clothes, she mostly dashed up the label’s best-selling silhouettes — wide-leg suits; high-waisted pants; modest, midlength dresses with novel back details — with subtle Western references. An ivory dress with an open back tied with a fringed scarf was embroidered with colorful paisley patches. A chicly roomy suit came in mismatched tartan with a quirky Western belt. And if you thought the sweatshirt had reached peak ubiquity, Smilovic managed to make it look new as sophisticated, nylon blend dresses, cardigans

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Brock Collection Pre-Fall 2018

Fabrics were the starting point for Laura Vassar and Kris Brock’s pre-fall collection. The couple has a taste for the traditional, some might say old-fashioned even, tending toward taffeta, lace and an intense jacquard based on an old wallpaper dug up in the fabric library of one of their mills. Yet they balance their old-world romance with an eye for the now. Their signature corsetry was done with raw edges and undone cuts, cut in separates that could be worn with a skirt or layered over one of their fine knit ruffled dresses, or jeans. Working in ultralight cotton voile took the preciousness out of corseted gowns, giving them a sense of comfort and ease that one doesn’t typically associate with corsetry. They also upped their evening offering in silhouettes that felt more edgy and sophisticated compared to some of their flirtier work — a black long-sleeved embroidered slim tulle gown with an elaborate peplum and a similar silhouette in white lace that could easily wonder into bridal territory, a category that’s on the designers’ minds but not in their business plan yet.

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Reem Acra Pre-Fall 2018

A cooler, younger vibe permeated Reem Acra’s mind for pre-fall. Her social media followers are mostly young women, and lately the strategy has been speaking to both them and loyal, more mature, consumers without alienating either. The answer here was injecting evening attire with both attitude and a laid-back sensibility.
She proposed unconventional elements for dressing up, paving the way for comfort and lightness to enter her library. The best examples came in the form of sheer dresses, like a great airy blush number with ribbon straps and a sheer overlay gown connected to a cropped red top. They were edgy, more casual takes on evening, and maintained intricate embroidery for which Acra is known. A striking strapless gown balanced Art Deco with modernity. And embroidered or not, gowns were cut with featherweight fabrics, shorter hemlines, and fell away from body. “This is the trend, lightness,” Acra said at a preview. “They don’t want to be bothered with heaviness. They want to be able to walk and feel cool.” She ensured a thread of youth with offbeat color combinations, separates that transition day-to-evening, and tasteful sheer moments that can resonate with women of any age looking for elegance with whimsy.

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Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Pre-Fall 2018

Founded in 2000, Italy’s Golden Goose Deluxe Brand has more recently been growing within the U.S. For pre-fall 2018, the brand designed a ready-to-wear and shoe collection around a fictitious woman who fantasized about stories of her grandfather, should she have ever met him. Notes from the designers claimed the collection, “is an ode to real imagination and imagined realities.” Vintage references ran throughout; there was Forties-inspired suiting, like a lilac set or striped trouser, along with multiple trenchcoats with full gun flap and box pleats. Men’s wear references and the reemergence of the brand’s original cowboy boots were also strong throughout. A mismatch of graphics — celestial, collegiate, tropical scenes, logos and floral prints — could have been pared down to make the whole idea more concise.

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Naeem Khan Pre-Fall 2018

Pre-fall delivers in the summer when Naeem Khan’s customers are looking for pieces to wear to a wedding in the Hamptons, a trip to the South of France, or simply something new to carry into fall. Given his evening propensity, there was a lot of glitz, but there was an equal focus on youthful cuts and a sense of lightness as well.
For anyone looking for traditional cocktail glamour, Khan showed an array of silhouettes ranging from a floor-length navy gown with hologram sequins he punched out himself, to gowns with raffia embroidery and flattering cinched waists. Flirty dresses with explosions of firework beading and swishy fringe mixed with lace exuded personality. There was an ease with the embellishments to wit; even though dresses were heavy on beading, they weren’t weighted down. A similar weightlessness was seen in an unlined coat and sweater with hand-sewn chenille; Khan’s older clientele will appreciate the coverup over dresses while younger girls will dress them down with separates. In fact, a focus on more youthful silhouettes resulted in a range of fluid evening pants, jumpsuits embellished with organic materials, and little black dresses mixed with subdued gold. “The young girl, she wants to combine,” Khan

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Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2018

Emilio Pucci is definitely associated with glamorous cocktail parties, luxury escapes to posh winter resorts and chic vacations on the Mediterranean islands.
This idea of jet-set lifestyle continues to play a relevant role in the development of the label, but a new sense of urban reality is actually what the Emilio Pucci creative team targeted for pre-fall.
The colorful and chic collection was strong on versatile pieces, still injected with high-end sophistication yet infused with metropolitan dynamism.
Printed leggings, which are iconic staples of the brand’s heritage, were matched with color-blocked sweaters, and a pair of satin five-pocket pants was worn with a diagonally striped tweed peacoat trimmed with fringes.
An impeccable sartorial Prince of Wales suit was showed in a charming pink tone and a pajama set was crafted from plush velvet.
New patterns were introduced, including a bold floral motif, as well as a Pop print, which paid a tribute to Andy Warhol’s muse Edie Sedgwick. This was splashed on a jersey column dress and was re-created with sequins on a covetable short tunic frock.
From a chubby marabou coat with a contrasting wool collar to a printed satin denim-inspired truck jacket and a maxi black dress embellished on the back with a printed maxi

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Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2018

Sporty accents injected a dynamic vibe into the Emporio Armani pre-fall collection.
The brand developed a versatile city wardrobe featuring the label’s signature combination of masculine and feminine details.
Effortless chic suits, including one in a wool fabric with a denim-like appearance, were cut with elongated blazers and generous pleated pants. More fitted and cropped jackets were worked in multicolor jacquards inspired by digital graphic art, while the Emporio Armani eagle logo was splashed on a casual quilted bomber matched with dark indigo boyfriend jeans.
An athletic feel was injected in a pair of boxing-inspired shorts worn with a jersey parka. A casual padded hooded jacket paired with matching wide-leg pants was crafted from a printed shiny fabric with a vinyl effect.
Quintessential feminine looks included a sequined mini frock with a polka dot tulle insert and a silk dress with an inlaid belt exuding Eighties’ sensuality.

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Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2018

“Seductive sobriety” was the expression which Giorgio Armani used to describe his pre-fall collection.
In a way, this season, Armani, who was born outside Milan in Piacenza, went back to his roots and he recalled that thick fog which used to surround the city during the long winters of his youth.
The designer translated his memories into the collection through the use of soft tones and plush fabrics wrapping the body with warm coziness.
Different tones of gray defined a range of pieces, including a little jacket worked in an Art Deco-inspired chevron motif and embellished with printed leather lapels punctuated by hand-painted maxi buttons. A lighter gray hue gave a chic attitude to a collarless coat worn over silk Bermuda pants and a chevron top, while gray was combined with pink, white and black on a leather blazer splashed with an abstract interpretation of a floral pattern.
Flowers, recalling Henri Matisse’s paintings, also peppered a silk romper trimmed with Kidassia fur, which was layered under a maxi Mongolian fur coat.
A more sporty and casual attitude informed another group of pieces, such as a graphic chevron bomber showing an asymmetric zipper, a jersey sweatshirt embroidered with the Giorgio Armani logo, as well as an oversize

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Dundas Pre-Fall 2018

“Happy clothes for happy times.” That’s how Peter Dundas described his “Dundas 2” collection, the second effort under his new namesake label, developed in partnership with his boyfriend Evangelo Bousis.
Unveiled during the pre-fall season, the collection is actually a seasonless wardrobe specifically designed to meet the glamorous and nomadic lifestyle of the crew of beautiful and fun “Peter’s Girls,” including Bianca Brandolini, Georgia May Jagger, Giovanna Battaglia and Poppy Delevingne. “They actually tried some of the clothes while they were still being made and they gave me smart suggestions,” said the designer, who highlighted that most of the pieces are easy to pack and they can be worn for a wide range of occasions.
The lineup, which Dundas developed to be more affordable than the Dundas 1 collection presented during the latest Paris Haute Couture fashion week, was a celebration of the designer’s signature aesthetic.
There were impeccably tailored suits, shown in embroidered velvet, sequined zebra patterns but also in off-white, and his iconic sensual dresses, such as the languid gowns featuring seductive Ziggy Stardust-inspired lighting bolts details running down the side.
Cherries were printed on silk fil coupé fluid frocks, and flowers blossomed on a cotton sun dress. Dundas’ beloved Bohemian feel ran

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2018

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are taking it easy for fall, with a lineup of loose, draped, smocked and off-the-shoulder dresses that were all about comfort — and grace. “She’s grown up, and she loves luxury — but she probably still dances to The Jesus and Mary Chain,” said the designers.
This feminine collection had a deliciously dark edge to it, too. Flowing, silk dresses came with pussy bows, single ruffles and uneven hemlines, although prints tended toward the sinister — snakeskin and flowers, or olive and black camou. Other dresses had black lace insets or bits of devoré velvet.
For evening, there were sequins galore, as in one slinky red dress or a sparkling camou one, or a silver off-the-shoulder number. For more subtle types there were ribbed knit dresses with working buttons running down the arms, while other dresses were done in crinkly sweeps of silk that had a sleeve flopping seductively off one shoulder.
The designers added a punk edge in the form of long plaid skirts with uneven hems, roughly patchworked knits in argyle and tartan and a fun, fat lumberjack check for a sweeping silk dress.

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Natasha Zinko Pre-Fall 2018

Natasha Zinko has brought back the high-shine, high-energy mood of the Eighties with her latest outing — a dynamic, upbeat lineup filled with bright colors, textures and plenty of attitude.
Inspired by Ali MacGraw in “Love Story,” and by the glamour and freedom that followed in the next decade, Zinko’s muse of the season was a woman in love, strong and confident.
She wore loosely tailored suits that came in lavender or camel, shiny nylon tracksuits or bright printed dresses that recalled “Dynasty,” Joan Collins and “The Yuppie Handbook.”
Zinko maintained a sense of romance and nostalgia throughout the collection with feminine floral midi dresses and the words “fallen in love” printed all over denim, blouses and dresses in Russian script.
At the same time, the androgyny that the designer has come to be known for was also prevalent, as in paillette dresses layered under boyish oversized parkas, delicately ruffled leather corsets paired with wide-leg cargo pants and large pockets on cool, low-rise denim.
Outerwear played a key role too, with a lamé check bomber and a layered shearling and denim jacket among the standouts.

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Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2018

Emilia Wickstead immersed herself into the world of Edith Bouvier Beale, known as Little Edie, producing a collection that was as elegant, vibrant and multifaceted as the American socialite and model herself.
Wickstead drew inspiration from every facet of Edie’s life, from the playful outfits of her aristocratic youth and the bright colors and patterns of her house to the more somber choices of her later years when she lost much of her wealth and was unsuccessful in her dream of becoming an actress.
There were bright floral minidresses and splashes of snake print reminiscent of the model’s high times, as well as more grown-up cotton shirts, check twinsets and embellished midi dresses as the designer aimed at bringing together “the old and the new, the decrepit and the fresh.”
Dresses continue to be the strongest components of Wickstead’s collection, and this season she updated her best-selling midi styles in bold reds or elegant jade greens inspired by imagery of Little Edie’s house.
As she establishes her signatures, Wickstead has also been looking to develop the line’s separates and to offer her customer a full wardrobe.
In line with the label’s romantic, feminine aesthetic, separates took the form of elegant printed blouses, midi skirts and

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Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2018

Fran Stringer is sharpening her focus at Pringle of Scotland, staying true to the label’s heritage and to what it does best: knitwear. Stringer said she wanted to offer a modern take on the idea of colorful winter dressing and her bright, upbeat lineup was filled with loose, chunky knits in a palette of sorbet shades such as lavender, turquoise and heather.
Stringer said she was inspired by the richness of the pastel colors found in French Cubist artist Francois Villon’s work and by archival brand imagery from the Seventies and Eighties, which led to an array of cool, chunky-knit dresses, loose ponchos and cardigans layered over each other. A charming lilac twinset — a standout in the collection — featured a knitted A–line skirt and cardigan in the same shade. “It’s our interpretation of the modern twinset,” said the designer.
Outerwear played a key role with plenty of loosely tailored wrap coats and ponchos done in wool or seam-sealed cotton gabardine.
As she continues to develop her handwriting, Stringer also felt more confident to revisit the brand’s signature argyle pattern, which she previously treated with caution in order to avoid associations with golfing. Argyle patterns were patched onto cardigans, dialed up and hand-knitted

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No. 21 Pre-Fall 2018

“This time it was more about conveying an attitude rather than focusing on the single pieces,” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua, revealing the process behind the creation of his No. 21 pre-fall collection.
The designer this season delivered looks with an intense, empowered femininity, always sensual yet dynamic.
Dell’Acqua mixed and matched his signature codes — including the charming balance between masculine and feminine elements, as well as the sense of lightness injected in his pieces and the innocent seduction always defining his lineups — in a beautiful, appealing collection.
There was something of the Fifties and Sixties in the body-conscious dresses unconventionally crafted from outerwear nylon and the high-waisted pencil skirts matched with boxy bowling shirts, including one completely covered with sparkling sequins.
The retro feel was enhanced by the images of Californian diners and motels printed on skirts, re-created on jacquard knitted pieces and popping up on the labels of dark indigo denim pants.
In a contrast between different forces, masculine utility zippered shirts were trimmed with micro crystals and sweatshirts were elevated with fringes.
With its street-ready appeal, this collection perfectly reflected Dell’Acqua’s signature approach to fashion, definitely creative and personal yet smart and commercially savvy.

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2018

Roksanda Ilincic said she wanted her woman to feel sheltered, protected and confident, which is why there was a softness — and strength — to this charming collection.
“We are all living in an uncertain times, when things we thought wouldn’t happen are happening,” Ilincic said. “It is really important to give my woman that extra confidence. She is strong and dressing for herself. She is interested in many different aspects of culture, and I think that curiosity is very important.”
She injected abstract embellishments here and there, including swirls of embroidered arty scribbles for a tea-length dress or raw threads and knots on shirts to symbolize craftsmanship.
Cocooning coats came in navy, green or khaki, with some featuring a sporty ribbed jersey back panel or a ruffle trim.
In a nod to classic men’s wear, there was a pinstripe pattern on soft, silky blouses and on long dresses with the designer’s signature bell sleeve.
Her more embellished pieces included long organza dresses with hand-cut and hand-sewn three-dimensional flowers, which added texture and movement.
Separates included voluminous trousers, and short, billowy blouses.
Colors were meant to transmit a sense of calm and happiness and included nougat, porcelain, bordeaux, acid green, lavender, sapphire and scarlet.

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Norma Kamali Pre-Fall 2018

“No one is allowed to say “summer, pre-fall or fall,” exclaimed Normal Kamali of her brand philosophy during her latest collection walk-through. “It’s month to month…if you go out on the street and ask people what’s April/May they’ll say it’s spring; they’re right, we have to stop doing this crazy talk.” For her latest offerings, which will drop during traditional pre-fall drops, Kamali designed a variety of versatile and lively clothes meant to be worn anywhere and everywhere.
The all machine-washable collection was shot, for a third season, on Kamali’s iPhone. This time around, the designer also shot a mix of look book and interview videos between Kamali and three models — Alewya Demmisse of Women, Frances Coombe of Muse and Tian Yi of Fusion — which was inspired by Kamali’s  involvement with Stop Objectification. Whether having a conversation about Citi Bike while wearing tiered, gauze ruffle pants and dresses or talking in-depth about the definition of love while moving around in a great silver lamé long coat and sheer top, the girls brought strong personality and a new light to the clothes. From striped or polka-dotted bright green and black suit sets and fringe dresses to vintage inspired swim and

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Warm Pre-Fall 2018

While thinking about Warm’s pre-fall collection, Winnie Beattie realized that, at that time of year — summer — thinking about what to wear is the last thing she wants to do. Therein was the thesis of the collection. “There’s no big inspiration,” Beattie said. “In June, July and August, I’m chilling out, relaxing, trying to find things I can wear then and carry into fall.” That meant lots of printed dresses in relaxed, comfortable proportions that are easily filed under the “bohemian” catchall, though Beattie and her partner Tracy Feith continue to elevate their fabrics, silhouettes and finishings above the average beach dress. For example, long silk jacquard dresses with kimono sleeves and fringed belts had the attitude and luxurious hand of a vintage Asian silk robe. “You can toss it on and your only decision is your accessories,” Beattie said. There were printed cotton voile dresses and tops cropped perfectly to pair with high-waisted pants. Within that silhouette was something that felt quite new and fresh for Warm: a button-down cotton shirt, cropped and tied for you, in a black and gold floral print that, when worn with high-waisted white pants, took on a summery vintage Versace flair.

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Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2018

With new merchandise across categories dropping every month, designer Marcus Wainwright is focusing on perfecting the Rag & Bone icons. For pre-fall in women’s, “men’s wear for women” was key, like an Army green skirt with a zipper down the front or military-inspired jacket. Easygoing dresses with buttons running down the sides — offered in light purple or black-and-white houndstooth — added a more feminine touch to the looks. Denim was also strong in the collection, a standout being a long workwear robe.
The men’s wear was also a compilation of the brand’s greatest hits. T-shirts, chinos, tracksuits, jeans and outerwear with military and workwear influences were all tweaked for the season. Among the highlights was a waxed cotton field jacket, a coach’s jacket in a black-and-white gingham pattern, a color-blocked hoodie, and a patchwork oxford shirt that Wainwright said was a personal favorite. “I had one when I was 15 so I had to do it,” he said.
He said the brand’s mission is to “double down” on what it believes to be the “perfect” chinos, jeans, shirts, etc. “That’s at the core of what we do,” Wainwright said. For pre-fall, a new twill chino has entered the mix, and features a

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2018

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are taking it easy for fall, with a lineup of loose, draped, smocked and off-the-shoulder dresses that were all about comfort — and grace. “She’s grown up, and she loves luxury — but she probably still dances to The Jesus and Mary Chain,” said the designers.
This feminine collection had a deliciously dark edge to it, too. Flowing, silk dresses came with pussy bows, single ruffles and uneven hemlines, although prints tended toward the sinister — snakeskin and flowers, or olive and black camou. Other dresses had black lace insets or bits of devoré velvet.
For evening, there were sequins galore, as in one slinky red dress or a sparkling camou one, or a silver off-the-shoulder number. For more subtle types there were ribbed knit dresses with working buttons running down the arms, while other dresses were done in crinkly sweeps of silk that had a sleeve flopping seductively off one shoulder.
The designers added a punk edge in the form of long plaid skirts with uneven hems, roughly patchworked knits in argyle and tartan and a fun, fat lumberjack check for a sweeping silk dress.

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Grey Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2018

During a preview of the Grey Jason Wu pre-fall collection, Wu made clear the difference between his two lines: “Grey is the casual, off-duty weekend version of Jason Wu, which is always much dressier.” Grey’s prices are lower and there’s a more relaxed ease than the main line, but inter-brand synergy is clear and Grey packs a lot of look for the contemporary positioning. Wu let a mannish, Hepburn attitude influence wide-leg trousers, striped shirting in a nice dense yet soft twill and tailored blazers and a great convertible trench that could be zipped off into a cropped jacket. Slipdresses — a main line staple — came in plain but chic silhouettes in wrinkle-free jersey, and more elaborately cut dresses were done in printed dévoré. There were plenty of knits, T-shirts and stylish sweats to keep essential wardrobe components covered.

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Gucci Pre-Fall 2018

Abundance seems to be a key word to describe Alessandro Michele’s era at Gucci.
Incredible sales, outstanding brand popularity, extensive collections and hyper-decorativism are definitely some of the elements that are marking the rebirth of the label.
Once again, Michele approached the pre-fall season — which is usually dedicated to safer, more commercial collections — with the same flamboyant, opulent, quite extreme attitude that defines his runway shows.
The brand presented a big lineup of 82 looks, which were shot by photographer Peter Schlesinger in different Roman locations, including the aula magna of the Dental Hospital George Eastman and the Hotel Mediterraneo, all previously used by Dario Argento for his horror movies.
Michele’s signature cinematic approach highlighted the quintessential eclecticism of the collection, which, while touching many different notes, was still so coherent and cohesive.
The Roman designer easily shifted from bourgeois bon ton to hip street glam. His nonsense grammar rules actually enabled him to build his own language, which is not only spoken within his reign but is actually becoming an international fashion idiom.
Clothes-wise, the lineup was extremely inclusive. Windbreakers, separates splashed with the Flora pattern, embroidered oversize college cardigans, bold tracksuits, as well as an array of jackets and skirts coming in

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J.Mendel Pre-Fall 2018 Review

“She’s kind of a nomad…a Polish, bohemian nomad,” designer Gilles Mendel spoke of Talitha Getty, the muse to his latest collection. While the iconic, free-spirit inspired the feel of his pre-fall collection, the color palette was prompted by Mark Rothko’s signature “Multiforms” works. “Coming here, to me, is like coming to the dressing room of the chicest girl in town,” Mendel mused. Inspired by the late Sixties and early Seventies, the collection looked glamorous and modern in Mendel’s DNA: pleated tulle overlay gowns, embroidered skirts and dresses and ruffled blouses.
Mendel enjoyed mixing unusual color combinations, plum with burnt orange, with his luxe and refined silhouettes. His best looks came in burnt velvet — a texture “so rich, that whatever you wear, you feel refined,” Mendel noted, like a vintage rose dress top with Seventies flared trousers or a floor-length gold gown with bishop sleeves. Luxurious, unfinished and reversible furs added to the beautiful and lavish feel of the collection. Overall, the contrast of Rothko’s work against a modern, bohemian spirit suited Mendel.

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Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2018

A sea-life-inspired collection shown via mini runway show at Pier 40, overlooking the Hudson River — the references were impossible to miss in Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s pre-fall collection for Oscar de la Renta. Cute illustrated seagulls appeared as a print on a shirtdress and on an intarsia blond mink coat. Fishbone motifs included sequined embroidery on an ivory merino shirt with tied shoulder details over houndstooth tweed trousers, and giant ivory laser-cut leather applique on a black tulle evening dress.
“We designed for a summer delivery,” said Garcia. “When it gets to the stores, it’s going to be what you want to wear to your summer house.”
The lineup was extremely commercial, full of takes on white shirting and blouses, which Garcia noted is a best-selling category. The shirts were worn with things such as a navy and white window pane boucle skirt, a navy dip-dyed plaid pencil skirt, a pair of extralong pinstripe skinny trousers that zipped at the ankle, and a neatly tailored black crepe coat with pearl embroidery at the cuff and matching cropped trousers. The pieces were nice and cleanly cut to be filed under the polished modernist fashion category, but Garcia and Lim still need

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Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2018

What’s next? That’s the question that Jil Sander creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier asked themselves for pre-fall.
In particular, they tried to focus not only on defining the possible future for the brand they joined in April, but also on imagining the imminent future of the world we live in. “We want to be positive,” said Luke Meier.
As a result of this approach, the designers focused on a comfortable, relaxed mood, which translated into “soft, cocooning, cozy and close to the body” silhouettes, as Lucie Meier described the overall shape of the lineup.
A sense of ethereal beauty ran through the collection, which opened with a futuristic-like featherweight, oversized padded coat cinched at the waist with a tone-on-tone corset. The outerwear piece was layered over a soft knitted turtleneck sweater and ribbed knitted joggers, heightening the sense of ease and comfort.
Beautiful shearling coats were worn with bias-cut skirts and wrapped sweaters, while jackets echoed cardigan styles and featured asymmetric closures, creating interesting volumes and drapes.
Jil Sander’s signature rigor informed the range of crispy cotton shirts and tailored suits, which were peppered with quirky touches such as asymmetric pockets and lines.
While centered around classic tones of cream and off-white, blue, gray and

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Brooks Brothers Pre-Fall 2018

Milton Avery, the Chrysler Building and a spicy autumnal palette were key influences in Zac Posen’s pre-fall collection for Brooks Brothers, but more than anything, the focus was on the brand’s classic career woman, who is very much well-suited. To that end, Posen worked up traditional navy pattern suits with banker blue shirts as well as more fashion red crepe suits. As an office-appropriate alternative, the classic navy pinstripe was reimagined in a soft crepe jacket-dress. On the more casual front, there were shirtdresses, foulard cardigans and blouses, a B-printed jersey wrap dress and a fresh portrait collar shirt in a micro hounds tooth print. Everything was polished and professional for the woman who likes to be well within the corporate dress code.

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Derek Lam 10 Crosby Pre-Fall 2018

Derek Lam 10 Crosby’s relatively new design director Shawn Reddy (he’s three seasons in) continued to infuse an earthy simplicity into the collection for pre-fall. In terms of references, he combined Agnes Martin’s artistic spirit, as well as grids, stripes, graphic patterns and neutral colors inspired by her work, with a touch of ikebana floral design. Silhouettes were born from clean, American classics and elevated by interesting details.
“We imagine this girl to be a potter living in Brooklyn,” said Reddy when he got to a spare dark, raw indigo denim jumpsuit with clean hardware buttons up the front and a cutout back. “She’s somewhat creative and has the essence of Agnes Martin today.”
Styling emphasized the artistic attitude. For example, a blue-and-white diagonal striped cotton dress with pleated details on the chest took on an eclectic feeling when worn over a turtleneck. Likewise, layered striped cotton shirts worn over a striped ribbed knit tank dress with asymmetric details. But individual pieces were wearable and unfussy with a lot of versatility. Nowhere was that more evident than an apron dress — a serene slip with an apron panel in the front — that could be worn three ways: loose and undone; tied

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Lafayette 148 Pre-Fall 2018

Lafayette 148 has long mined inspiration from art. For pre-fall, creative director Emily Smith looked to two of her favorite movements — Vienna Secession and the Bauhaus School — to inform the collection’s balance of graphic prints, linear lines and overall relaxed undertone.
The brand’s approach to design is buy-now-wear-now; for the pre-fall delivery window, essentially the summertime. Lightweight packing essentials that can mix and match and come wrinkle-free came top of mind. Leisurely pajama sets, a flirty red asymmetric dress and those with triangular motifs were some of the most comfy.
A focus on length generated a strong assortment of trenches and duster coats. A khaki version cut in cotton with a bit of linen had a great hand touch, while the red over a monochromatic look had intentionally bunched-up sleeves. The latter was paired over a slightly sheer “piano stripe” top inspired by the work of Josef Hoffmann. Elsewhere, leaf prints referenced the whimsical florals of Secession, appearing most polished on a green garden dress.
Versatility was the biggest appeal. A crisp striped suit could work for a business meeting but was still relaxed; paired with a little cami, it also teased seduction. There were other moments of the soft-and-heavy balance,

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Fendi Pre-Fall 2018

Fendi is in the mood for love.
For pre-fall, the Roman fashion house embraced a pop romanticism that translated into a collection combining Fendi’s renowned craftsmanship with a modern, joyful elegance.
The heart was the symbol of the lineup. Mink fur hearts decorated a sumptuous yet ironic hand-cut leather cape which was layered over a dark indigo denim skirt and a T-shirt embellished with an archival logo.
Hearts also appeared as the multicolor intarsia of a boat neck mink fur coat, while they were mixed with graphic flowers in the lace pattern inspired by Western African Dutch Wax prints on a plissé slipdress.
Putting the focus on the shoulders, suits with a slightly Seventies feel featured double-breasted jackets with wide lapels while a checkered cotton dress revealed an eyelet insert, giving the illusion of an off-the-shoulder silhouette with a sweetheart neckline.
Everything in the collection exuded a sense of exclusivity, from the street-luxury fur bombers showing a squared version of the FF logo and the playful mink fur coat featuring intarsia heart-shaped padlocks to the elegant velvet frocks enriched with crystal embroideries and bows.

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2018

Boho is over — at least as far as Clare Waight Keller is concerned. As if to banish for good the girly romance of her Chloé tenure, the designer’s pre-fall collection for Givenchy, her second for the brand, mined deeper into the masculine-feminine territory she mapped out in her debut show.
With its mix of oversize outerwear and geek-chic midi dresses, the lineup — shot at a private manor in Kent, England — felt bang in tune with a period of increasingly radicalized gender politics. In fact, shoulders haven’t been this big since the advent of power dressing in the Eighties.
Waight Keller kept the volume current with soft, sculptural constructions like a trenchcoat trimmed with leather and snaps, or chunky monochrome fake fur jackets and coats structured with graphic herringbone motifs. Edgy color clashes telegraphed self-possessed cool.
“It’s in the air politically, and obviously there’s a lot of discussion around that, but I do think even as a house, we represent a very confident and a very daring kind of woman,” Waight Keller told WWD.
She traced her use of bold shades like red, amber, electric blue and black to founder Hubert de Givenchy. “I love the idea of those strange brights. They’re sort

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Missoni Pre-Fall 2018

The effortless attitude of New York’s women and their eclectic look served as inspiration for the Missoni pre-fall collection.
Marking a move from its signature patterns, including the zig-zag, the brand embraced a new attitude and explored different solutions to refresh its image.
The result was definitely appealing. The Missoni graphic logo pop up on several pieces, infused with a cool street mood. For example, it appeared as a contrasting intarsia on the back of a covetable shearling bomber, while it served as starting point to create a geometric pattern embossed on tight leather pants. The logo also gave a playful twist to knitwear, including comfortable joggers matched with a luxurious shearling and mink fur striped jacket.
Mannish influences, especially evident in the range of oversized coats and impeccable suits, were juxtaposed to a free-spirited folk feel. This resonated in the range of patchwork silk dresses showing a combination of different floral patterns and enriched by a cascade of printed fringes, as well as in the crochet maxi cardigans and outerwear styles exuding artisanal craftsmanship.
Despite the array of vibes and references, the lineup seemed coherent and marked an interesting step for the evolution of the fashion house, which is gearing up to celebrate

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Temperley London Pre-Fall 2018

Alice Temperley referenced a myriad of influences — such as 20th-century female explorers, nature, archeology and Peter Beard’s travel journals — for pre-fall. The Temperley woman was a dynamic, wandering traveler who was on a journey and spent her days exploring.
Temperley juxtaposed feminine aspects of the range with more masculine shapes, which added a cool edge to her relaxed and contemporary lineup of daywear, tailoring and eveningwear.
She incorporated cotton drill men’swear tailoring, oversized silhouettes and cinched-in waists against soft chiffon fabrics and florals. There was a jumpsuit that featured a bold graphic embroidery influenced by Tibetan Tiger rugs. A tailored khaki suit was belted at the waist. The jacket, which came a bit oversized, was paired with wide-leg cropped trousers.
For eveningwear, she concentrated on spines and nature as embellishments. She employed sequins and mirrored Perspex, which were hand-cut. She looked at the spines of leaves, animal prints and fossils and devised geometric patterns, which were hand-sewn as accents on floor-sweeping gowns and jumpsuits.
The designer worked in a palette filled with camel, green, khaki, dark olive, pecan, saffron, savannah, scarlet, turmeric and vermilion.

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Tomas Maier Pre-Fall 2018

Tomas Maier is a designer with practicality in the forefront of his mind. What do his customers desire when pre-fall actually hits stores? From Maier’s observation that “the customer does not buy much ahead of time anymore,” he created two separate drops for pre-fall 2018.
The first, which will hit stores mid-May/June included summer hits. There was fun swimwear, cotton beach-appropriate gingham, airy cotton pleated dresses and lightweight outerwear, such as a nylon Windbreaker that could be worn in the reverse lamé side for a hint of glam. His strongest assortment from drop one resulted in two lightweight denim dresses with industrial pull belts and straps.
Maier proclaimed his second drop to be “a bit more of a boarding school girl…good girl versus bad girl.” There were great fall textures throughout. A check kilt with the same industrial pull belts and chunky sweaters for the “good girl” while “bad girl” included chic denim set of high-waisted pant and tailored jacket cow-printed mohair collar as well as a mesh skirt. Maier’s outerwear proved strong as well and rounded out final drop of a collection that was sensibly planned around Maier’s customers timely desires.

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Coach 1941 Pre-Fall 2018

“A gothic, romantic fairy-tale,” Stuart Vevers said during the walk-through of his women’s and men’s pre-fall collections for Coach. He aimed to design what he referred to as a “specific moment” — a stand-alone capsule for the season rather than a transitional fashion message. References included American rock ‘n’ roll royalty, a blend of Stevie Nicks’ romantic spirit and Axl Rose’s swagger, plus the darker side of Disney’s “Snow White.”
The juxtaposition of cartoon references, like the seven dwarves or poison apple, with Americana accents — whipstitching, floral embroideries and eyelets — made for an exciting assortment. Literal interpretations took many forms, like a knitted sweater with a spooky “house in the woods” motif, or “Sleepy” and “Bashful” embroidered leather bags. Standouts included a delicate yet edgy black lace and floral printed handkerchief dress as well as a sleek, tailored black band jacket.
The sensibility was the same for men’s wear, which had a distinct streetwear edge. Hoodies, short-sleeve sweatshirts, backpacks and skateboards came embellished with ghost eyes and the occasional evil squirrel graphic, reflecting the designer’s sense of fun and cool.
These items mingled with Vevers’ trademark classics with a twist such as polos with a dinosaur crest, varsity jackets with Western

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Maggie Marilyn Pre-Fall 2018

“Every collection is a springboard for the next,” stated Maggie “Marilyn” Hewitt during a morning walk-through of her pre-fall 2018 and fall 2018 collections. Upon walking into the room, this feeling is apparent in Hewitt’s pre-fall assortment through identifiable brand colors: lively reds, pinks and greens that transition to subdued and neutralized hues for fall. The feeling floats throughout both collections à la athletic details, flowy silk dresses and tailored separates with feminine twists.
For both collections, Hewitt played with textures. There was a great gingham trenchcoat with “grandpa plaid” panels as well as a smocked long-sleeve button-down for pre-fall, while fall’s standout included a playful tartan tennis-skirt-trouser-hybrid pant paired with a one-shouldered crisp white top. There was plenty of updated Maggie Marilyn staples: athletic hoodies and bombers with organza ruffles, modern blazers with sleeves that could be worn down or cinched up, flowy silk tops and striped day dresses. The overall theme of the collections could be summed into Hewitt’s catchword of the season: easy. In her case, this meant creating superchic yet relaxed throw-on wear, whenever or wherever clothes that walk the line between masculine and feminine. “I think that’s the always the thing for me, the fine

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Dsquared2 Pre-Fall 2018

Whether she is a fly girl from the Bronx, N.Y., or a disco queen from Manhattan, the Dsquared2 woman of the season is utterly cool.
For pre-fall, Dean and Dan Caten managed to deliver what they do best — charming clothes infused with luxury, polished glamour and a high dose of fun.
The precise and sharp silhouettes defining Dsquared2’s signature tailoring-oriented aesthetic was perfectly balanced by the introduction of metallic fabrics, striped and camouflage patterns, as well as pops of vibrant colors.
The collection was built as the rich wardrobe of a trendy urban girl. She hits the city’s streets with light wool track pants embellished with a logo band and matched with a coordinated bomber. She picks up the kids at school in a pair of distressed jeans, paired with a striped sweater and a covetable classic shearling coat. But when the sun goes down, she pours into a dramatic black gown with a sexy plunging V-neck or pairs a tuxedolike skirt suit with an open back wrap top and over-the-knee heeled boots.
She can be a playful tomboy, a chic uptown girl and a party girl — in any case, someone you’ll surely want to call your friend.

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EXCLUSIVE: French Label Koché to Stage Pre-Fall Show in New York

PARIS – After Paris and Tokyo, Christelle Kocher is ready to bring her rule-breaking approach to catwalk shows to New York.
The French designer will hit the Big Apple on Dec. 12 to showcase her pre-fall collection for her ready-to-wear brand Koché, alongside a capsule men’s wear collection marking the start of a new two-season partnership with The Woolmark Co.
The display, to be held at the Strand Bookstore on Broadway, will also feature the next chapter in her ongoing collaboration with Paris soccer club Paris Saint-Germain — with perhaps a celebrity footballer or two in attendance, league schedules permitting.
Known for blending streetwear influences with the kind of upscale techniques usually reserved for couture, Kocher has staged guerrilla-style shows in locations including a crowded underground station and a historic covered shopping arcade in Paris, as part of her ethos of sharing fashion with the masses.
With its slogan “18 Miles Of Books,” the Strand is one of New York’s oldest and largest independent bookstores, featured in movies including “Six Degrees of Separation,” “Julie & Julia” and “Remember Me.”
“This is the first time we are doing a show for a pre-collection,” said Kocher, adding that she has a “special relationship” with New York, where

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Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2018

Urban safari was the mood at Just Cavalli. The brand’s glamorous attitude was tempered by both metropolitan and tribal accents, which gave a fresh appeal to the lineup. A variety of wild animal patterns was combined on a breezy silk tunic matched with flared pants, while African motifs peppered the jacquard knits, including a V-neck Lurex sweater paired with a silk blouse and pleated culottes. A range of Eighties disco-inspired pieces, such as cargo pants and a draped, asymmetric minidress worn under an embroidered utility parka, were more flamboyant and eye-catching. Leather jackets treated with artisanal techniques to obtain textures inspired by scarification as well as embroidered jumpsuits and maxidresses enriched with studs and beads completed the collection with a touch of luxurious opulence.
 

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Etro Pre-Fall 2018

Etro re-created an Eastern wonderland for pre-fall. The brand’s signature luxury nomadic spirit was given added charm via Far East iconography, echoed in the collection’s mix of graphics and patterns.
Tapestries, chinosoiries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large inspired both the floral and graphic prints and the jacquard motifs. Kimono-like robe coats came in opulent brocades trimmed with mink fur, while asymmetric draped dresses were realized in lightweight textured silk.
The decorative attitude of the lineup, enhanced by the rich color palette, was balanced by sophisticated city staples injected with a subtle Seventies vibe. These included an orange peacoat worn with denim pants featuring a beaded side decor, as well as a pajama set in a joyful and colorful floral print matched with a printed sports bra, which introduced a touch of contemporary athleticism.

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Escada RTW Pre-Fall 2018

Newly appointed global design director Niall Sloan started in August, though his first imprint on the label won’t be until the fall 2018 collection. In the interim, a design team worked on both mainline and Sport with the goal of taking classic Escada prints and reinterpreting them in new silhouettes. The effect was a less structured, more lightweight offering for the boardroom to dinner. Florals atop florals were an easy path to more youthful dressing, and could pack easily into itself, like a wrinkle-free coatdress that folded into an envelope pouch.
The inspiration was twofold — Peter Lindbergh’s recent photo exhibition in Germany and iznik pottery from Turkey — resulting in a mix of classic men’s wear-inspired suiting with bold prints in red, blue and turquoise. The items that toed the balance best were subtle, as in cardigans and sweatshirts with hand-beaded petals that never felt overdone. There were in fact quite a few embellished looks, from a flirty blue dress that would suit any young starlet to an evening gown that took over 300 hours to hand-bead; though a great deal of work was applied to these, they maintained an unstructured ease. Perhaps that’s the reason customers keep coming back

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Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2018

They say timing is everything and one is inclined to guess that Tomas Maier would agree. He operates on a schedule — the calendar is often the first thing he references during previews of his collections, whether for Bottega Veneta or his own line. At a walk-through of the former’s pre-fall lineup, Maier divvied the clothes up into three deliveries — May, June and July — almost designing three micro-themes within one collection, each based on what he thinks women would want at that exact time of year.
The first part was the next step from his spring collection — light, soft, unadorned derivations of some of the silhouettes shown on the runway. Light pink dresses in airy, washed silk were suited to summer’s early days. Then, for June, “What do I need?” asked Maier. “It’s probably a wedding, a christening. Events come up.” Special occasions warranted special details, such as an easy, robe-like printed cotton coat over a multicolored bronze, blue and white paillette dress in a simple, sporty silhouette. When it finally gets closer to real fall, Maier wanted to tease the season with sophisticated back-to-school/back-to-work shapes, such as graphic plaid skirts, leather jackets and ultralight knit polos with

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ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo Pre-Fall 2016

Tony Melillo referred to his latest pre-fall collection as “grunge-luxe.” His lineup of languid sweaters, wide-leg trousers and graphic, Modish minidresses oozed an understated, wearable ease; one that was undone but never messy. Silk blouses, tailored jackets and jumpsuits in sandy neutral tones were finished with oversize breast pockets, riffing on subtle utilitarian themes. Relaxed silhouettes came updated in textural fabrics — such as a large cardigan in a gauzy tape yarn and a few camisoles and skirts in crushed velvet — and were toughened up when paired with leather miniskirts and jackets.

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Public School Pre-Fall 2016

DUBAI — Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School took their pre-fall show to Dubai, showing Monday night in a specially constructed space at the Dubai Design District with a view of the world’s tallest building.
The designers described the collection as a contrast between technology and nature. “It’s about where they meet and the idea of permanence in nature giving way to this fleeting platform of new ideas and the constant demand for newness,” said Chow. “It’s an interesting contrast that we played with, especially to do this here in Dubai which is essentially a new city just plopped here in the middle of the desert.”
The natural elements in the collection included Japanese Shibori print jackets with ethnic-inspired necklines. “We used the idea of traditional indigo dyeing, but playing with it in our way, mixing with sports tailoring. The jackets were contrasted with sports stripes hanging from the arm,” said Osborne.
The collection also brought mesh to the top layer of pieces, using a two-tone mesh fabric of navy and white, creating a 3D effect when layered over the Shibori print. “We’ve always had it as an underpinning of mesh in our collections, but using it this way was a

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Public School Pre-Fall 2016

DUBAI — Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School took their pre-fall show to Dubai, showing Monday night in a specially constructed space at the Dubai Design District with a view of the world’s tallest building.
The designers described the collection as a contrast between technology and nature. “It’s about where they meet and the idea of permanence in nature giving way to this fleeting platform of new ideas and the constant demand for newness,” said Chow. “It’s an interesting contrast that we played with, especially to do this here in Dubai which is essentially a new city just plopped here in the middle of the desert.”
The natural elements in the collection included Japanese Shibori print jackets with ethnic-inspired necklines. “We used the idea of traditional indigo dyeing, but playing with it in our way, mixing with sports tailoring. The jackets were contrasted with sports stripes hanging from the arm,” said Osborne.
The collection also brought mesh to the top layer of pieces, using a two-tone mesh fabric of navy and white, creating a 3D effect when layered over the Shibori print. “We’ve always had it as an underpinning of mesh in our collections, but using it this way was a

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Public School Pre-Fall 2016

DUBAI — Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School took their pre-fall show to Dubai, showing Monday night in a specially constructed space at the Dubai Design District with a view of the world’s tallest building.
The designers described the collection as a contrast between technology and nature. “It’s about where they meet and the idea of permanence in nature giving way to this fleeting platform of new ideas and the constant demand for newness,” said Chow. “It’s an interesting contrast that we played with, especially to do this here in Dubai which is essentially a new city just plopped here in the middle of the desert.”
The natural elements in the collection included Japanese Shibori print jackets with ethnic-inspired necklines. “We used the idea of traditional indigo dyeing, but playing with it in our way, mixing with sports tailoring. The jackets were contrasted with sports stripes hanging from the arm,” said Osborne.
The collection also brought mesh to the top layer of pieces, using a two-tone mesh fabric of navy and white, creating a 3D effect when layered over the Shibori print. “We’ve always had it as an underpinning of mesh in our collections, but using it this way was a

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Pre-Fall 2015 Trend: In Vest

Alexander Wang Pre-Fall 2015

Not the discreet underpinning of the past, the vest takes center stage for pre-fall as the ideal transitional piece in long and lean silhouettes.

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Pre-Fall 2015 Trend: Biker is the New Black

Adam Lippes Pre-Fall 2015

Chicer than classic biker gear, pre-fall’s take on black-leather classics ranged from discreet to rock ’n’ roll.

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Balmain Pre-Fall 2015

Balmain Pre-Fall 2015

Confident about adding a touch of romance to his pre-fall collection for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing introduced his first flower prints for the house.

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Viktor & Rolf Pre-Fall 2015

Viktor & Rolf Pre-Fall 2015

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren designed their pre-fall collection to carry on the sweetly nostalgic mood of their spring 2015 offerings.

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Damir Doma Pre-Fall 2015

Damir Doma Pre-Fall 2015

A new serenity emanated from the designer’s pre-fall collection.

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Damir Doma Pre-Fall 2015

Damir Doma Pre-Fall 2015

A new serenity emanated from the designer’s pre-fall collection.

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Matthew Williamson Pre-Fall 2015

Matthew Williamson Pre-Fall 2015

The designer looked Marrakech and all the rich jewel tones and ornate embellishment associated with the city for pre-fall.

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Moschino Pre-Fall 2015

Moschino Pre-Fall 2015

For pre-fall, Jeremy Scott looked to the house’s atelier for inspiration, using its features as motifs for joyful looks.

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Akris Pre-Fall 2015

Akris Pre-Fall 2015

Albert Kriemler’s collection included two different groups of looks.

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2015

Roksanda Ilincic Pre-Fall 2015

All of the designer’s signature plays on volume and texture were out in force in this feminine collection.

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2015

Roksanda Ilincic Pre-Fall 2015

All of the designer’s signature plays on volume and texture were out in force in this feminine collection.

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Veronique Branquinho Pre-Fall 2015

Veronique Branquinho Pre-Fall 2015

The designer’s pre-fall lineup was full of pleats, color-blocking and cozy knits.

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Kenzo Pre-Fall 2015

Kenzo Pre-Fall 2015

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim adopted a tribe mentality for pre-fall, designing for a cult that’s all about individual expression.

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Kenzo Pre-Fall 2015

Kenzo Pre-Fall 2015

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim adopted a tribe mentality for pre-fall, designing for a cult that’s all about individual expression.

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 Runway

Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 RTW

The post Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 Runway appeared first on Vogue.

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Lanvin Pre-Fall 2015

Lanvin Pre-Fall 2015

Alber Elbaz’s mantra seemed to be: Give pieces a chance.

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Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2015

Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2015

For pre-fall, the theme was “cool girls on the varsity swim team,” which was most evident in the collection’s color scheme.

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House of Holland Pre-Fall 2015

House of Holland Pre-Fall 2015

This youthful, color-drenched collection tapped into a tough, street-inspired mood.

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Won Hundred Pre-Fall 2015

Won Hundred Pre-Fall 2015

Creative director Nikolaj Nielsen and designer Anna Bauer drew inspiration from the late-Seventies’ and early-Eighties’ punk and rock movements.

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Noon by Noor Pre-Fall 2015

Noon by Noor Pre-Fall 2015

Designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa took a minimalistic approach to pre-fall silhouettes.

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Ohne Titel Pre-Fall 2015

Ohne Titel Pre-Fall 2015

Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill drew inspiration for their pre-fall lineup from Jimmy Nelson’s photography book “Before They Pass Away.”

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Ohne Titel Pre-Fall 2015

Ohne Titel Pre-Fall 2015

Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill drew inspiration for their pre-fall lineup from Jimmy Nelson’s photography book “Before They Pass Away.”

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2015

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Pre-Fall 2015

Their touchstones ran from Faye Dunaway in the Seventies to images of Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love in the Nineties.

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Antonio Berardi Pre-Fall 2015

Antonio Berardi Pre-Fall 2015

Berardi riffed on masculine dressing for pre-fall but gave the codes of men’s wear a luxurious, feminine twist.

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House of Holland Pre-Fall 2015

House of Holland Pre-Fall 2015

This youthful, color-drenched collection tapped into a tough, street-inspired mood.

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Pink Tartan Pre-Fall 2015

Pink Tartan Pre-Fall 2015

The collection had a distinct Seventies vibe, seen in designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran’s wide-leg pants, boho blouses, jumpsuits and wrap dresses.

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Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2015

Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2015

David Neville and Marcus Wainwright almost always design under the influence of men’s wear, tailoring, etc. — it’s in their English roots.

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Thakoon Addition Pre-Fall 2015

Thakoon Addition Pre-Fall 2015

Thakoon Panichgul applied the same crafty moodiness and black-and-white mosaic motif from his main collection to Addition.

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Rebecca Minkoff Pre-Fall 2015

Rebecca Minkoff Pre-Fall 2015

In a palette of army green and khaki, Rebecca Minkoff worked a military reference to chic effect for pre-fall.

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BCBG Max Azria Pre-Fall 2015

BCBG Max Azria Pre-Fall 2015

Inspired by the work of Spanish Catalan artist Joan Miró, Lubov Azria worked lingerie detailing into a series of dresses and pleated skirts.

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Roland Mouret Pre-Fall 2015

Roland Mouret Pre-Fall 2015

For the second time, Roland Mouret staged a small runway show at his grand London headquarters to introduce pre-fall.

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Shoshanna Pre-Fall 2015

Shoshanna Pre-Fall 2015

Shoshanna Gruss found herself in a Mediterranean state of mind for pre-fall.

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Paule Ka Pre-Fall 2015

Paule Ka Pre-Fall 2015

The design team continued to mine the Parisian brand’s favorite decade — the Sixties.

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Hervé Léger by Max Azria Pre-Fall 2015

Herve Leger Pre-Fall 2015

Lubov and Max Azria evoked African heritage by way of vibrant colorways and updated their signature bandage dresses with new textural plays.

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Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2015

Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2015

Sexy is a comfort zone for Plein, who, for pre-fall, showed plenty in that vein.

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Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2015

Philipp Plein Pre-Fall 2015

Sexy is a comfort zone for Plein, who, for pre-fall, showed plenty in that vein.

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Rebecca Minkoff Pre-Fall 2015

Rebecca Minkoff Pre-Fall 2015

In a palette of army green and khaki, Rebecca Minkoff worked a military reference to chic effect for pre-fall.

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Alexander Lewis Pre-Fall 2015

Alexander Lewis Pre-Fall 2015

The designer conjured up a subversive femininity for pre-fall, drawing on the idea of a complex Middle Eastern woman.

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Thakoon Pre-Fall 2015

Thakoon Pre-Fall 2015

A black-and-white paparazzi shot of Mia Farrow provided Thakoon Panichgul’s visual inspiration for pre-fall.

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Alexander Lewis Pre-Fall 2015

Alexander Lewis Pre-Fall 2015

The designer conjured up a subversive femininity for pre-fall, drawing on the idea of a complex Middle Eastern woman.

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Osman Pre-Fall 2015

Osman Pre-Fall 2015

Osman Yousefzada took a metaphorical trip to the wilds of 17th-century North America for his whimsical — but still sophisticated — collection.

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Osman Pre-Fall 2015

Osman Pre-Fall 2015

Osman Yousefzada took a metaphorical trip to the wilds of 17th-century North America for his whimsical — but still sophisticated — collection.

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Elizabeth and James Pre-Fall 2015

Elizabeth and James Pre-Fall 2015

Modern bohemian interpreted in clean, minimalistic silhouettes was the pre-fall vision at Elizabeth and James.

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Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2015

Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2015

Stacey Bendet’s pre-fall muse was Loulou de la Falaise, and she fused the late fashion personality’s chic bohemian style with a ladylike Forties flair.

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Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2015

Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2015

Ulla Johnson masterfully balanced her signature boho spirit with boyish, utilitarian pieces for pre-fall, grouping them into a series of vignettes.

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